I recently read a thread on an online boating forum about boarding ladders. And it scared me. Specifically it was a comment from one poster who said he had a rope and plastic rung emergency ladder on board but had never tried it.

Having had some experience with these ladders, I can tell you that getting back on board in adverse conditions is no time to be learning. That trial and error should take place well before you end up in the drink.

There are many different kinds of ladders and distinctions you should understand before you buy – and certainly before you need to try to get back on board.

Some things to consider: ladders should extend two or three rungs under water to make boarding easier. This is important, because after a short time in the water you will be weak and possibly even in the beginning stages of hypothermia. Boarding ladders should be deployable from the water; ladder mounts should be suitably reinforced; and handholds are very good things to have.

GARELLICKA typical "J" or gunnel ladder with aluminum side tubes and molded plastic steps.What follows is a review of different styles, with the pros and cons of each. Whatever ladder style you choose – and there are several – get familiar with its use before you're faced with actually having to use it.

"J" LADDERS

One of the most common types of temporary boarding ladders is the "J" style ladder. The two uprights, usually made from aluminum tubing, have the upper end bent in a semicircle, forming an upside down "J' when viewed from the side. The rungs are typically molded plastic units that slide onto the tubes and are locked in place. Some ladders allow the side "J" tubing to swivel and lie flat for easier storage.

This type of ladder is designed to hook over the gunnel or transom of the boat. The size of the curved part of the "J" ladder in conjunction with the configuration of the transom or gunnel is critical. On occasion I have seen versions of this ladder that slipped off the boat as soon as any weight was placed on it.

This ladder will remain vertical up to the point where the tubing fails. To alleviate this problem, choose a ladder that has stand-offs on the lower part of the ladder. These rest against the hull, helping keep the ladder vertical while making it less likely that the tubing will bend.

A properly configured "J" ladder that fits the boat and is equipped with stand-offs makes an inexpensive and effective solution.

WEBBING LADDERS

This style of ladder is constructed from wide webbing, which is very strong. Loops are sewn in the webbing to act as foot holds in lieu or rungs. Typically it is deployed by hanging it from a cleat or, on a sailboat, a winch.

In practice, this style of ladder is hard to use. One has to work their foot into the loop, which is usually not open because the ladder is stored rolled up and flat. The loops are generally best entered with the foot parallel with the hull, as there is no toe room if your foot is pointed at the hull. The single vertical webbing requires climbing hand over hand to regain the boat, which is not a comfortable or easy proposition.

WEST MARINEAn emergency ladder with PVC rungs.

In addition, unless the hull of the boat extends below the bottom of the webbing ladder, there will be a tendency for the person on the ladder to swing under the hull. That position, with your legs under the hull, requires a great deal more effort to board the boat.

ROPE AND RUNG

This was the subject of my discomfort while reading the forum discussion. This type of ladder consists of two vertical ropes separated by rungs. These are available at most marine stores and several Internet sites also offer do-it-yourself plans. The two vertical ropes are joined at the top to form a loop that can be placed over a cleat or winch. The rungs can be wood or, most often, sections or lengths of PVC pipe.

These ladders suffer from many of the same problems as the webbing ladders – most of the production ladders available in marine stores do not have room to get your toes on a rung when the rung is tight against the boat's hull. DIY ladders can get around this by using standard PVC plumbing fittings to make standoffs. But wooden rungs have the unfortunate habit of floating to the surface. If you have this style, weight the bottom to keep it down.

If you have one, take it out of the storage bag and try it out, preferably in some nice warm, calm water.

BOARDING STEPS

Many sailboats and some powerboats deploy a boarding step when at the dock. These consist of one or two wide steps that can be hung from the side of the boat to assist in bridging the gap between the dock and deck level. There are several commercial designs available as well as a host of DIY designs.

Vince Purcell, one of my sailing friends, built such a device for use on his Columbia 34 Mk II. I can vouch for its effectiveness, having used it several times. His boarding step was built from marine plywood but it could also be made from polymer lumber such as StarBoard.

FOLDING AND EXTENSION (TRANSOM MOUNT)

These ladders are permanently bolted to the transom of the boat. Obviously the boat isn't equipped with a swim platform. Designs range from simple folding ladders that pivot around the top mounting as one unit, to the more complicated extension ladders that retract when folded upward and extend when folded down.

PAUL ESTERLEReinforcing the transom is critical in the installation of a transom mounted boarding ladder.