GLEN JUSTICEYour anchor is more than a convenience. It is a piece of safety gear. If the engine fails, the anchor can keep the boat away from shoals or rocks.
If your engine conks out, dropping your anchor–slowly–is the best way to prevent being driven by wind or current onto the shoals or rocks. If you've already run aground, you can use your anchor to pull yourself off (a technique known as "kedging") or at least keep your boat from moving further onto a shoal.
Buying an anchor or a system of anchors–many boaters carry different hooks for different conditions–is a complicated task that is worthy of research. There are many styles, each with a devoted fan base. You want to purchase an anchor that will work well on the bottom conditions in your area and that is sized correctly for your boat. It should be big enough to hold firm, but not so big that it taxes your windlass or becomes difficult to deploy. The chapter on anchoring in Chapman Piloting and Seamanship serves as a good primer, and talking to fellow boat owners locally often helps.
Remember too that you must buy enough anchor rode (line and chain) to stretch at least seven times the distance between the roller on your bow and the bottom of the deepest water in which you expect to anchor. This is known as a 7:1 ratio and it is a fairly standard measure. You'll need to pay out at least that much line to anchor securely. How much chain to use, which is determined by the size of your boat and the conditions in your area, is another decision worthy of research. Whatever you decide, make sure the end of the line opposite the anchor is tied securely to your boat.
How you stock your line locker is also a safety issue. Always carry enough line–in the right lengths and thicknesses–to enable you to tie up at a marina, raft up with another boat or make a bridle and towline. The thickness of your lines should depend on the length and weight of your boat and the size of your mooring cleats.
You can consult with your boat's manufacturer or with fellow owners for specific recommendations, though there are some general guidelines available. Don Casey, author of Good Old Boat, suggests that docks lines be equal to the length of the boat. As for diameter, he suggests 3/8-inch for vessels up to 25 feet; 1/2-inch for those up to 35 feet; 5/8-inch for those up to 45 feet and 3/4-inch for those as large as 55 feet. Keep your lines coiled and dry when you're not using them.
VHF, BINOCULARS, COMPASS
Next on the list: a VHF-FM marine radio. These are not required by law, but both a mounted VHF and a hand-held backup are found on most well-appointed boats. You may be able to get help by using your cell phone, but calling via VHF radio will reach more people and won't require that you know the telephone numbers of all the local responders. Once you have bought a VHF, be sure you learn how to use it properly–including the accepted procedures for emergencies.
Binoculars are another helpful safety item. Buy a decent pair–in the $200 to $300 range–with a magnification of 7x50, which is pretty standard for recreational boating. More expensive models are stabilized, which counteracts the motion of your boat and helps you focus on what you are trying to see.
Another item frequently neglected item is a solid compass. Go ahead and laugh at this one, but you really need a large, easy-to-read and accurate compass. Some boat manufacturers skimp on size and quality, so if your boat doesn't have a good compass, get one. In bad weather, it may be all you have to determine where to steer to a safe harbor.
