All the experts recommended two deep reefs instead of three shallow reefs to save weight and cost.Butch Ulmer: We have no particular preferences here. We'll lay out the options to the customers and let them decide which is best for them.

Bob Pattison: We build a lot of mainsails with lazy jacks/Lazy Bag combinations as well as Dutchman reefing systems. Both work well and are relatively simple to rig and maintain.

How many reef points do you recommend for a wide range of conditions?

Steve Cruse: First I like to keep the whole reefing system as simple as possible. That's why I don't usually recommend single-line reefing set ups. For coastal and offshore sailing, I suggest building in two deep reefs instead of three reefs. The third reef is rarely used and only adds weight and cost to the sail. I do like to see clew blocks at each reef, which makes hauling in the clew lines much easier. Harken Air blocks work well.

Robbie Doyle: I prefer using two deep reefs instead of three shallower reefs because you save both weight aloft and cost. When we were building the sails for Mirabella V, we developed Nylatron donut fittings that are sewn to the leech instead of building in cringles. The sail keeps a better shape and the reefing lines run easily through the donuts. For those sailing well offshore, a storm trysail is a safety net if you damage your primary sail.

Butch Ulmer: For coastal sailors we often recommend building in only one reef point, since most coastal sailors avoid strong wind and will stay inshore. For offshore sailors we recommend two deep reefs. And, we recommend carrying a storm trysail that can be rigged on its own track and hoisted easily. A trysail is really part of the boat's safety pack.

Bob Pattison: I always recommend two deep reefs in a sail instead of three. A third reef adds weight, chafe problems and cost to a sail and is seldom used. If you are heading offshore, we will always recommend a trysail and we suggest that an extra track for it be attached to the mast so the sail can be left hanked on and ready to go. The Offshore Racing Council publishes recommended sizes for trysails but we like to build them smaller, about 75 percent of the ORC sizes.

For in-mast furling mainsails, what batten system do you recommend?

Steve Cruse: Vertical battens are the way to go since they can be rolled right into the mast and around the mandrel. We have worked hard to make the batten pockets as unobtrusive as possible. We build the pockets so flat battens slide in from the bottom. This reduces cloth at the leech, which can bulk up or jam when the sail is reefed and furled.

Robbie Doyle: We developed the horizontal SwingBatten system for in-mast mains but only recommend it for racers who need as much performance as possible. For most sailors, vertical battens will give you a bit more roach and more sailing power.

Butch Ulmer: There has been some interest in full-length vertical battens but we do not recommend them. Instead we like short vertical battens that support some roach in the sail. We like to position the battens so the lower ends overlap the batten below it a bit. The battens have to be parallel to the mast so the sail will reef and furl easily.

Bob Pattison: An in-mast furling mainsail loses about 20 percent of the potential sail area. With vertical battens you can gain back about half of that sail area, and that will make your boat sail better and point higher. The system we developed for Beneteau USA's in-mast furling mainsails has proven to be durable and effective.

How can you further optimize the performance of a new in-mast furling mainsail?

Steve Cruse: By building the sail of a higher performance laminate, we have found the sail has a better shape and reefs and furls more easily than Dacron. We also recommend coating the sail with SailKote, which retards incidences of mildew and makes the sail slippery so it rolls and unrolls more easily.

Robbie Doyle: Since you can't adjust mast bend, you really need a high quality sail to add any performance. This is a good use for Vectran laminated sails since they will have better sail shape. Also, inlaid fiber sails, like the Vectran laminates, will roll better because they are flatter and smoother than Dacron.

Butch Ulmer: There is not much you can do beyond vertical battens to improve performance. But you can improve longevity by adding small patches to the leech that strengthen the sail at the points of loading at various reefing depths. And you can strengthen the leech since it gets extra loading from the vang and mainsheet.

Bob Pattison: Building a good sail will be half the battle but the sail will be flat since it must roll inside the mast. To adjust sail shape all you have is the outhaul and the halyard. The outhaul can really affect the lower two-thirds of the sail and add or reduce power. The main halyard will often be set up at the start of the season and forgotten. But, by easing or increasing halyard tension, you can add or decrease the draft in the sail. The main halyard should be checked regularly anyway. The main halyard should always be tight before furling to ensure proper furling, so if you have eased it some, take it back up before your roll the sail away.

For in-boom furling sails, how can you make the new sail as trouble free as possible?

Steve Cruse: This is a hot topic and we have seen the in-boom furling systems improve a lot over the years. For those interested in performance, in-boom systems allow us to build really nice full-battened sails. The sailmaking for these systems is very important. I would say 98 percent of new larger cruising boats have in-boom systems. Nearly 100 percent of the sails we build for these systems are laminates that stretch less than Dacron. That keeps the sail's dimensions in place and makes reefing and furling easier.

Robbie Doyle: This is another good use for in-laid fiber sails that are flat and smooth and hold their shapes well. For battens, we like to use S-glass and carbon laminates since they are lighter and stiffer than fiberglass battens

Butch Ulmer: It is critical for the sailmaker to follow the boom manufacturer's instructions very carefully, and they all vary. The tack angle and batten angles are critical. If the sail and battens don't roll into the boom perfectly parallel to the boom, the sail can jam or tear.

Bob Pattison: We do a lot of in-boom mainsails and have seen the boom makers really get the kinks out of their systems. Two key points make in-boom systems trouble free. First, it is imperative for the sailmaker to follow the manufacturer's specs carefully. If the batten angles are off, the system won't reef or furl. Second, UV protection is often ignored. The boom has to have an effective cover over the slot and the head of the sail, which is often left slightly hoisted. If this is the case, it needs acrylic patches just like the leech and foot of a roller genoa for protection. An in-boom system and mainsail are substantial investments and should be protected.

TOMORROW: The Experts on Headsails