Like almost any electrical device these days, you can also use a remote to control your windlass, either hard-wired or wireless. A wired remote can have multiple access locations throughout the boat. But, as you would with any operations device, always provide a backup control system in case of a failure (such as dropping the remote over the side).
SIZING THE WINDLASS
One other major decision is choosing the right size windlass for your particular vessel. Many manufacturers provide a sizing chart that are usually accurate. However, if you are near the dividing line between one size and the next, it is often smart to opt for the larger size.
One manufacturer recommends sizing a windlass by calculating the weight of the entire ground-tackle system. This includes the anchor, the anchor chain and the anchor line. Multiply that value by a factor of three to account for tidal currents and windage. The resulting value should not exceed more than one-third the rated pulling power of the windlass.
Lewmar, another major manufacturer, recommends that the windlass's maximum capacity be four times the weight of the ground tackle. For example, if you have a total ground tackle weight of 62 pounds, you should choose a windlass with at least a 248-pound maximum pulling capacity.
Remember that a windlass isn't designed to pull the anchor by itself. It should be capable of breaking out a lightly buried anchor and pulling it aboard. However, a better practice is to snug up the anchor rode vertically, lock the chain and use the engine to break out a deeply buried anchor.
INSTALLATION CONSIDERATIONS
There are many considerations that can impact windlass performance when it comes to installation, the foremost of which is location. The anchor rode should be able to travel a straight line from the bow anchor roller to the windlass gypsy. A chain trying to engage the gypsy pockets is likely to foul or jump off the gypsy if it meets it at an angle. The windlass will need to be situated such that the chain and rode can fall into the chain locker as freely as possible.
If you choose a vertical windlass, the chain locker will need to be deep enough to contain the chain and the unit. Be careful, though, especially if you have all-chain rode. Chain does not play nice in a chain locker. Instead of spreading out as it enters, it "pyramids," forming a tower directly under the hawsehole where it enters the locker. A horizontal windlass requires a drop of at least 12 inches below deck level, and a vertical windlass may require much more room.
The windlass must also be mounted in a location that is strong enough to withstand the load placed on the bow structure by the pull on the unit. It will require a substantial backing plate underneath and, in the case of a vertical windlass, sufficient room to house the motor and gearbox.
There are several factors to consider when bolting a windlass to the deck. First, check to see if the deck is cored. A cored deck has a top surface of fiberglass, a middle layer or core and then a bottom layer of fiberglass. The lightweight core provides a lighter and stiffer panel than an uncored fiberglass deck. That core is often plywood, balsa or foam. If the windlass is not sealed properly, water can leak into the core and weaken the structure.
The proper technique to seal mounting holes for bolts is to drill an oversized hole and then fill it with epoxy filler. Once the epoxy has cured, the mounting hole is redrilled through the solid epoxy plug. The plug effectively seals the core from any water intrusion.
