What kind of safety equipment do I need on my boat? That may not be the first question you ask when you've just bought a new sailboat or powerboat, but it may be the smartest.
Buying the proper safety gear isn't just a matter of fulfilling federal or state requirements, it is vital for your own protection in case of a mishap on the water.
"When you're out on the water, you're pretty much on your own, and you don't have much access to immediate help from other people," said Bill Gossard, head of the recreational boating division of the National Transportation Safety Board, the independent federal agency that investigates major accidents on the water. "You need to be as self-sufficient as you can."
George R. Beneman, a vessel examiner for the U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary, agrees. "It's like wearing seat-belts in your car and carrying a spare tire with you," he said. "When the unexpected happens, you need to be prepared."
Of course, the list of safety equipment, both required and desired, is long and the task of equipping a boat can be expensive and overwhelming. Try to buy all of it at once and you in for a large bill, and the cart full of gear you take home may not suit your needs.
A better strategy is to inventory what your vessel has onboard and the condition the equipment is in, and then make a prioritized list of upgrades. Start with gear that is required by federal and state regulations and save complicated optional equipment for last, so you have time to do research and shop for the best price.
To help get you started, here's a rundown of what a well-appointed boat has on board.
LIFE JACKETS
GLEN JUSTICELife vests should be worn or kept readily available, not stored in plastic containers deep inside a locker.
The first item on your list should be Coast Guard-approved life jackets. By law, you must have one for everyone on board and special life jackets for children that are sized to fit and have straps that go under the crotch. The best way to have a life jacket at the ready is to wear it. If you don't do that, you're required to keep it readily available–not locked in a compartment and not wrapped in a plastic bag.
Life jackets come in a variety of types and sizes, and all Coast Guard-approved life jackets bear a printed label saying which type they are. For most recreational boaters, a type III life jacket is adequate, but it's intended mainly for calm, inland waters. For rougher seas, you'll need a type II (near-shore) or type I, which can keep you afloat more securely and will do a better job of keeping your head out of the water. Type III life jackets don't.
Many boaters use the new inflatable life jackets, which are more comfortable to wear. But these are intended mainly for persons who can swim, and there's always the risk that their CO2 chargers may not work.
Coast Guard regulations require you have special life jackets for children, who must wear them whenever they're on deck. The rules apply nationally to kids 12 and under, but many states mandate them for younger children. Life jackets for kids must be the proper size and should have straps that go between the youngster's legs.
Whatever kind of life jacket you buy, don't forget to equip it with strobe lights, a whistle and other safety gear.
You also should carry a life-ring and other "throwable devices"–such as buoyant boat cushions–that you can toss to someone who falls overboard. Boats 16 feet or longer must carry throwable devices and store them where they're immediately available in case of an emergency.
GLEN JUSTICEThe engine room of this 55-foot motoryacht has a small extinguisher readily available outside. Not pictured is a large fire supression unit near the twin engines.
Tenders and life rafts are not required on recreational vessels, and they can be expensive. However, they can expand your cruising options, allowing you to go ashore for supplies or explore areas with shallow water. They are also a safety asset that is worthy of consideration if you go far from shore.
FIRE EXTINGUISHERS
If your boat is 16 feet long or longer, you must have at least one fire extinguisher–two if your boat is 26 feet long or longer–and they should be mounted conspicuously where you know everyone can see them and reach them. The galley, the engine room and near on-deck barbecue grills are all good places to keep a unit.
Carbon dioxide (CO2) fire extinguishers, labeled ABC, are the most versatile. Don't store a fire-extinguisher in a locker or compartment. It won't be of any use unless you can get to it quickly and easily. You also need to make sure that your extinguishers are in good condition and are properly charged. There's usually a pressure gauge near the operating lever, and it should register in the green area. If it doesn't, get the extinguisher recharged or replaced.
If you have an inboard gasoline engine, a flame arrester and ventilation equipment such as a blower should be standard equipment. If they are not, have them installed immediately. Several boats with inboard gasoline engines blow up each year when a spark ignites the fuel vapors that collect in the bilges.
SIGNALS, HORNS AND LIGHTS
Federal regulations require that you carry a minimum of three visual distress signals, including red flares and orange smoke signals. If you already have some aboard, make sure you replace them before they expire. Most boating supply stores sell kits that contain several kinds of flares and smoke devices in a waterproof container. Store them in a cool place, and be careful–these devices produce very hot flames.
Federal laws also require recreational boats to carry "sound-producing" devices so they can warn other boats of danger and exchange signals about what they and nearby vessels are doing. For most recreational boats, that means an air-horn (a small cannister that emits a loud noise when you push a button) or megaphone-style horn that makes a noise when you blow into it.
Your boat also must have the required array of navigation lights. For most boats, that means red and green sidelights, a masthead light and a stern light. Depending upon the size of the vessel, you may be able to get away with single "combination lights," containing both red and green sidelights in one fixture, and an "all around" light that combines a masthead light and stern light. Make sure you have spare bulbs stored in a protective container.
You should have an array of different-sized flashlights and lanterns, particularly if you go out at night, and be sure you have a good stock of batteries to keep them powered. Flashlights are something you will reach for again and again, so buy several.
ANCHORS AND DOCK LINES
To many boaters, an anchor is mainly for convenience, a gadget you toss over the side if you want to stop somewhere for lunch. But an anchor is truly an important safety device.
GLEN JUSTICEYour anchor is more than a convenience. It is a piece of safety gear. If the engine fails, the anchor can keep the boat away from shoals or rocks.
If your engine conks out, dropping your anchor–slowly–is the best way to prevent being driven by wind or current onto the shoals or rocks. If you've already run aground, you can use your anchor to pull yourself off (a technique known as "kedging") or at least keep your boat from moving further onto a shoal.
Buying an anchor or a system of anchors–many boaters carry different hooks for different conditions–is a complicated task that is worthy of research. There are many styles, each with a devoted fan base. You want to purchase an anchor that will work well on the bottom conditions in your area and that is sized correctly for your boat. It should be big enough to hold firm, but not so big that it taxes your windlass or becomes difficult to deploy. The chapter on anchoring in Chapman Piloting and Seamanship serves as a good primer, and talking to fellow boat owners locally often helps.
Remember too that you must buy enough anchor rode (line and chain) to stretch at least seven times the distance between the roller on your bow and the bottom of the deepest water in which you expect to anchor. This is known as a 7:1 ratio and it is a fairly standard measure. You'll need to pay out at least that much line to anchor securely. How much chain to use, which is determined by the size of your boat and the conditions in your area, is another decision worthy of research. Whatever you decide, make sure the end of the line opposite the anchor is tied securely to your boat.
How you stock your line locker is also a safety issue. Always carry enough line–in the right lengths and thicknesses–to enable you to tie up at a marina, raft up with another boat or make a bridle and towline. The thickness of your lines should depend on the length and weight of your boat and the size of your mooring cleats.
You can consult with your boat's manufacturer or with fellow owners for specific recommendations, though there are some general guidelines available. Don Casey, author of Good Old Boat, suggests that docks lines be equal to the length of the boat. As for diameter, he suggests 3/8-inch for vessels up to 25 feet; 1/2-inch for those up to 35 feet; 5/8-inch for those up to 45 feet and 3/4-inch for those as large as 55 feet. Keep your lines coiled and dry when you're not using them.
VHF, BINOCULARS, COMPASS
Next on the list: a VHF-FM marine radio. These are not required by law, but both a mounted VHF and a hand-held backup are found on most well-appointed boats. You may be able to get help by using your cell phone, but calling via VHF radio will reach more people and won't require that you know the telephone numbers of all the local responders. Once you have bought a VHF, be sure you learn how to use it properly–including the accepted procedures for emergencies.
Binoculars are another helpful safety item. Buy a decent pair–in the $200 to $300 range–with a magnification of 7x50, which is pretty standard for recreational boating. More expensive models are stabilized, which counteracts the motion of your boat and helps you focus on what you are trying to see.
Another item frequently neglected item is a solid compass. Go ahead and laugh at this one, but you really need a large, easy-to-read and accurate compass. Some boat manufacturers skimp on size and quality, so if your boat doesn't have a good compass, get one. In bad weather, it may be all you have to determine where to steer to a safe harbor.
Similarly, you will want to buy paper navigation charts that cover for your area. If you're a serious boater, you'll learn how to read these charts and you'll keep them up to date and readily available on board–even if you have an electronic chart plotter. If you lose power, a paper chart and a flashlight can get you home.
FIRST AID, TOOLS AND SPARES
First aid kits come in any size, from a Band-Aid package and a bottle of Bactine to a professional medical kit. The best advice is to take stock of the kind of boating you do and where you do it, then chose or assemble a kit for your needs. If you're just going out for a spin on a lake, that's one thing. If you're about to head out for a five-day blue-water cruise, that's another. In either case, you will want to carry basics on board to treat common maladies such as cuts, stings, burns, headaches and seasickness.
GLEN JUSTICEBoats 16 feet or longer must carry throwable devices and store them where they are readily available. Rings and throw lines, shown here, are two examples.
Similarly, tool kits come in all sizes and they too are part of emergency preparedness. You may need to make basic repairs, or assess problems in an emergency. One good strategy is to start with a basic toolbox that has an assortment of wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers and other essentials. You can then add to it as you do projects or as needs arise.
More important are spare parts, such as oil and fuel filters, belts and impellers. If you run into trouble away from your home port, you can usually find a boat mechanic. But it's not always easy to find spare parts, particularly if you have an older boat or an uncommon model.
You can build a spare parts locker yourself, by listing part numbers and ordering from a marine store. Another strategy is to solicit help from a mechanic, who can usually assemble a basic kit quickly, or contact your engine manufacturer or distributor. Often, they sell prefabricated kits. They may be more expensive, because they contain brand-name parts. But you know they will be sized correctly.
You'll also need a "dewatering device," which is the Coast Guard term for anything you can use to bail out excess water, from a plain plastic bucket to a gasoline-powered pump. Many boaters use thin gray hand-pumps that are operated with a push-pull handle. Whatever you buy, make sure it'll do the job for your boat. It's too late trade it in once you are taking on water.
Of course, the list of safety gear can go on and on. You need a boat hook, and maybe two if your boat is longer than 20 feet; fenders large enough to protect your boat and perhaps a pump to keep them firm; a set of paddles or oars, which can be used to propel smaller boats and fashion an emergency rudder on larger boats; and a deck key to access the openings to your water, fuel and waste tanks. Be sure to buy a float for it.
COMPLYING WITH REGULATIONS
You must carry your vessel's registration papers from the state or the Coast Guard. If your boat is registered with a state, you need to display your registration numbers on the forward half of your vessel, either on a plaque or on the hull itself, just below the gunwales. If your boat is a documented by the Coast Guard, the documentation number must be etched into a structural part of the vessel, usually down below.
Either way, you'll also need a decal from your state showing that you have paid the annual registration fee. If your state requires you to show proof that you've taken a mandatory boating safety course, you must carry that card with you as well. And, except for older boats, your vessel should have a manufacturer's capacity plate to show how many people–or how much weight–your boat can carry safely.
PRESTON GEORGEBoat fires are exceedingly common. Vessels with inboard gasoline engines should be equipped with flame arresters and ventilation equipment to make sure fuel vapors don;t settle in the bilge and ignite.
There are many federal and state regulations that may require you to make purchases or modifications, including some that are relatively obscure. For example, many boaters know that it is illegal to pump raw waste from your head overboard in coastal or inland waters (in some states, such as Rhode Island, you may not even use a macerator). But did you know that if your boat has a holding tank, you must lock your Y-valve in position to prevent anyone from pumping the contents of the tank into the water? Or that federal regulations require owners to post a pollution placard (MARPOL placard) in visible places on boats longer than 26 feet. Both are simple to comply with–you can get a placard at almost any boating supply store–but you must be aware of the rules in order to follow them.
If you are unsure whether you have equipped and configured your boat properly, call or visit the website of your local U.S. Power Squadrons (www.usps.org) or U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary (nws.cgaux.org) unit and ask them to conduct a "vessel safety check" on your boat.
A knowledgeable vessel examiner will look over your boat. If you pass, you'll get a decal to paste on your windshield or mast. If not, at least you will know what else you need. The safety check is free at both organizations, and neither will get you into trouble. They do not notify maritime authorities if your vessel is not up to snuff.
Another resource may be your marina, which is likely to have a list of federally-required equipment. You also may want to check the boating registration office in your state, or the website run by that office, to find out about additional boating regulations. BoatUS (the Boat Owners Association of the United States) <<
Of course, just carrying proper safety gear isn't enough–you must know how to use it. Everyone on your boat–including guests–should be familiar with the basics, such as life jackets and fire extinguishers. Beneman, at the Coast Guard Auxiliary, recommends conducting routine drills with regular crew members and giving visitors a safety talk and demonstration at the dock, much the way airlines do for their passengers on the runway.
As he put it, "You can't just hope that people discover these things when an emergency occurs."
Art Pine is a veteran journalist who has served as a Washington correspondent for the Baltimore Sun, the Washington Post, the Wall Street Journal and the Los Angeles Times. He is a licensed captain and a longtime Chesapeake Bay sailor.