We all know the definition of cruising, right? Fixing your boat in exotic locations. That may be a little tongue-in-cheek, but there's a nugget of truth in there. And that means the tools you choose to carry aboard are worth some consideration.

A well-appointed tool kit that is properly sized and organized will facilitate common repairs and maintenance by giving you the right tool in the right place, allowing you to focus on the job. An unplanned kit, whether too large or too small, can frustrate you with endless searching, tempt you to ignore problems and often lead you to press some ill-fitting implement into service, with predictably bad results.

The trick, of course, is what to carry and how to organize it. While the answers will be different for every boat and every captain, what follows are some ideas on how to assemble the right set of tools and set them in order in a way that makes sense.

Do you have something like this onboard? Then it is time to do some organization. As all writers know, stories like this are risky because leaving out some vital gear or gizmo can make you look foolish. Just remember that these are guidelines. What you actually carry will be dictated by your boat, your budget and your activities on the water.

BUYING TOOLS

Arriving at the ideal tool set will not happen in a day. Rather, a good set of tools evolves over time as you take on jobs and then add or subtract–mostly add–based on your experience. A smart strategy is to start with some basics, then add new tools to make life easier or to handle specific requirements as you work on different systems.

Before I get to specifics, I want to lay out a few assumptions. For starters, I believe that life is too short to work with crappy tools, and so I recommend that you buy the best you can afford and treat them well. They may not be stainless steel and they probably won't come in one of those neat plastic cases you find in the marine stores. But they'll do the job and they'll last, if you take care of them.

I also tend to stay away from buying large tool assortments. The pricing and the volume are tempting, especially when you are starting out. And there are some exceptions. But in general, my experience is that I end up using about half of the tools and the rest just lie around taking up room.

Selecting quality tools means selecting a quality tool maker, and here you will find strong opinions among boaters. Everyone has their favorites.

Since the marine market is comparatively small market, we look to those who supply larger markets, such as automotive mechanics. Among these suppliers Sears is perhaps the best known and most accessible. For years Sears Craftsman tools have enjoyed a reputation for quality and a warranty second to none, though there have been complaints in recent years about service.

SK tools are on a par with Craftsman and are available at most auto parts stores. Cornwell, Matco and Mac tools are better quality but aimed at professional auto mechanics. Snap-On tools are considered by many to be the best tools available, though they are also among the most expensive.

All have great warranties and stand behind their tools. They are also less accessible to the general public because they are sold out of dedicated tool trucks that go to shops and sell directly to mechanics. Make friends with your auto or boat mechanic and see if you can arrange to buy from their supplier. There are also bargains to be had on eBay and elsewhere. As in all things, you pay your money and you take your chances. In most cases I prefer spending a little more and getting a quality tool.

SCREWDRIVERS AND SOCKETS

Getting down to specifics, we can start with screwdrivers, one of the main components of any tool kit. You'll need several sizes of Phillips and flat head (blade), to handle all applications. Small tools fit in tight spaces and large tools handle heavy jobs (the longer the driver, the better your mechanical advantage). Get screwdrivers with cushioned grips for more secure turning.

In addition to standard sizes, I carry a set of jeweler's screwdrivers in a small plastic case. These are used for working on small equipment like gauges, compasses and computers. A set contains both regular and Phillips screwdrivers. Stubby screwdrivers and Z-shaped screwdrivers are also useful for jobs where you have little room.

Specialty gear such as jewler's screwdrivers or computer tools (shown here) can be useful in many applications. There are also other types of drivers for specialty fasteners. For example, your boat may require a selection of Robertson or square-drive screwdrivers. Other specialty screwdrivers are Torx and Pozi-drives. Choose sizes and styles that fit the fasteners aboard your boat.

Make sure that you have a deck key that can open the fills on your waste, water and fuel tanks. Put a float on it–like all on-deck tools, these are often casualties–and carry a spare.

Ratchets are more confusing, because they come in multiple sizes and the selection of sockets, adaptors and extensions out there is bewildering. There are three common sizes: 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch. The 3/8 inch drives are the most common, the 1/4-inch drives are for light duty and the 1/2 inch drives are for heavy duty applications.

Here is where I break my rule about buying sets. I have sets of the most common socket sizes for both my 1/4-inch and 3/8 inch drives, as well as a set of deep sockets for the 3/8 inch ratchet. Since I have a Yanmar engine, I also carry a set of metric sockets for the 3/8-inch ratchet. I do carry a 1/2 inch drive, but only a few sockets for specific applications. Again, key your tools to the needs on your boat.

I also carry some special sockets: spark plug sockets, Philips head, straight blade and hex head sockets, all of which are used with specific fasteners. I also carry a complement of extensions, adapters and a universal joint for the 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch drives. You never know what you may have to come up with.

Nut drivers, a screwdriver-style handle with a socket on the end, can also be useful.

WRENCHES AND PLIERS

There are as many wrenches out there as there are options for screwdrivers and sockets. The three main styles are open end, box end and combination wrenches. I carry a good set of combination wrenches with several open-end wrenches in the most common sizes: 7/16 inch, ½ inch and 5/8 inch.

Large sets of tools, while sometimes cheaper, can be a false economy because many of them go unused. Buying what you need as you need it is often a far better strategy. I also carry a couple tappet wrenches. These are long, open-end wrenches that have narrow slots. As their name implies, they are used for adjusting valve tappets in an engine, but I find them ideal for holding the flat on a rigging stud while I adjust the turnbuckle.

I also carry a couple of hydraulic line wrenches that match the fuel and oil lines on my engine. No need to carry a full set, just the ones you need. Adjustable crescent wrenches and a set of metric combination wrenches are also helpful. I also have at least one pipe wrench on board for those difficult plumbing fittings.

Two other wrenches that are seldom used but critical are an oil filter wrench and a packing gland wrench for tightening the packing gland nut on the stuffing box.

Last–but definitely not least–are Allen wrenches. I carry a full set in a plastic pouch, as well as several with "T" handles in key sizes. I also carry one of the multi-wrench tools, where the Allen keys fold into a handle like a pocket knife. It's great for those times I drop the regular Allen key down in the bilge.

I carry a couple of slip joint pliers in various tool kits aboard. The one with cushioned handles are best. I also recommend a couple sizes of "parrot beak" or water pump pliers. Needle nose pliers are also needed aboard in several sizes.

Wire cutters are useful and you might also consider carrying a cable cutter if you have a sailboat, in case you need to cut rigging. I also carry a couple of pairs of tweezers and hemostats for holding small items.

One or two pairs of vice grips are also handy. I carry a large one and a small one that resembles a needle nose version. It is handy for holding a nut to get it started on a remote, hard-to-reach bolt.

HELPFUL ODDBALLS

You may not think it, but several styles of hammer can be useful aboard a boat. A rubber mallet is useful for "persuading" things. One example is to pound a wooden plug into a failed thru-hull. A mechanics, or ball peen hammer should also be included in a tool kit, and I carry a small tack hammer for lesser jobs.

Sooner or later you'll need to cut something aboard. A hack saw, with replacement blades, is a necessity. I also carry a hand saw for wood as well as a fine-tooth modeler's razor saw. Carrying spare repair material or hoses aboard is no help if you can't cut it to size.

Remember too that there are a myriad of devices that, though not exactly tools, can make jobs go much smoother. These include buckets, funnels, tape measures, levels, gauges to measure the diameter of plumbing and fuel lines–the list can go on and on.

In fact, there are many useful tools that you may not think of immediately. Two good examples are punches and chisels. Punches are useful in driving corroded pins out of fittings, such as hatch hinges. A sharp metal chisel is ideal for splitting a rusted nut off a stud. Files can also help. I have a rat-tailed file, a triangular file and a couple of flat files in various sizes. Of all my tools, files seem to corrode the fastest, so keep them dry and lubricated.

There are many ways to store tools, from special bags to ordinary buckets. The author favors plastic boxes with each containing tools for a specific system on the boat. I also carry a couple of mechanic's magnets on extendable handles, necessary for fishing tools from the depths of the bilge when you drop them (notice I said when, not if). I also have a mechanics mirror on an extendable handle, which is sometimes needed to find the dropped item.

Again, remember that tool selection is subjective. Some boaters recommend having a tap and die set aboard for chasing threads or tapping new holes, though I don't personally carry them. I do carry a hand drill with a selection of bits for when shore power is not an option, though some of my friends laugh at me.

Multi-tools, pipe cutters, bolt cutters, pry bars, wood working tools and many other implements are all out there and available. Just be careful what you buy, because everything you add contributes weight to the boat and gives you one more thing to store.

ELECTRICAL TOOLS

One tool above dispute is a good multi-meter. Buy a good one and learn to use it. The voltage scale monitors the health of your batteries and the ohm meter helps you chase down wiring gremlins. With the meter and a reference book, you can troubleshoot just about any problem aboard.

In addition to the meter, I also carry a 12-volt test light. This handy device has a light on one end and a long wire with an alligator clip on the other. It's very useful for tracing 12-volt circuits, simply lighting up when power is present.

A wire crimper and stripper are also helpful tools to have aboard. I usually have my pistol grip soldering iron too, though I only use it when shore power is available.

Of course, safety glasses are a necessity, as is an adequate medical kit. All kinds of tool-related injuries can take place when you are working with equipment on a boat, so be prepared to treat them immediately.

ORGANIZATION

Just as there are many tools, there are many systems to organize them, including boxes, bags, belts, buckets and totes of all sizes. Each has its base of fans.

I have my tool kits organized in a series of small plastic tool boxes. One holds generic tools, another is engine specific, and I have sets for electrical, plumbing and several other systems. Having them segregated by function makes it easier to find the tool you need, makes for a lighter tool box and is usually easier to store.

A generic tool kit is the starting point. It should contain all the non-specific tools, those not unique to the engine, plumbing, electrical or other systems. Your hammer, wrenches, pliers and other basic tools will live here. As you develop familiarity with other systems and work on them, you can start building a kit for each.

Your first will likely be for the engine. The reason for having a system-specific tool box is to weed out all the tools not sized for the engine. This way, when your diesel shuts down and you have to bleed the fuel system to get it running again, you don't have to sort through the entire set of wrenches looking for the right one. The same concept holds true for other systems.

Another tip is that tools do not all need to live in the same place. If it is convenient to have a long-handled screwdriver in the cockpit or a small ratchet on the flying bridge, there is nothing wrong with storing them there, so long as they are protected. Keeping tools accessible in the places where you need them will encourage you to do the little the maintenance jobs that often get neglected.

Similarly, remember that not every tool in your arsenal needs to be carried aboard. If you only use something once or twice a year, store it at home and bring it when needed. The boat will have more space and the tools will last longer outside the marine environment.

Water, especially salt water, is the enemy of your tools, and you want to keep them dry and oiled to prevent corrosion. For tools that rust quickly, such as files, I wrap them in shop rags sprayed with WD-40. I also spray the tools in the tool box with a light coating of WD-40. You don't want them swimming in the stuff–and you should wipe them before use–but a light mist will displace any water on the surface of the tool.

Any sharp tools, like chisels and saws, should also be wrapped in shop towels to protect the sharp edges–and your hands when you are rummaging around in the tool box.

Paul Esterle is Technical Editor for Small Craft Advisor Magazine, and his freelance work has appeared in Sail, BoatWorks, Voyaging and Good Old Boat magazines. He has produced a series of boating videos and lectures widely. He also works at West Marine and has written product reviews for the company.