When it comes time to cover the boat for winter, people do get creative. Walk around any marina this time of year and you will see canvas tied this way and that, tarps lashed in a dozen different styles and all kinds of home-made towers and structures.
The truth is that there is no proper way to cover a boat that will work universally for all vessels. Tarps, canvas, Shrink-wrap and custom solutions all have pros and cons, and which is best for you will depend on the weather in your area, what kind of boat you own, where you store it and whether you plan to use or visit it during the winter.
The idea, of course, is to protect the boat from accumulating snow or water and provide a barrier against the elements during months of non-use. And, while there are some common mistakes to avoid, there are many ways to accomplish these goals. There's even a "do nothing" option–no cover at all–that will work for people who can visit their boats often and perform basic maintenance through the winter.
To find out what will work for you, start by looking at what your neighbors have done. Canvas several dock mates, marina hands and others who know the area. By gathering several opinions you can learn from the experience of others, then try an approach yourself and improve it each year.
CLEAN THE BOAT
Before we start weighing the options, there's a lot of preparation to be done. You're going to start with some simple tools: A mop, a broom, some wipes and some trash bags. That's because the first step involves cleaning out the boat.
The operating rule when it comes to cleaning is this: if you leave it there this Winter, it will still be there next Spring. And it probably won't smell so good, so be thorough. Remove all the food and drinks aboard. Get the moldy bread from the galley and the soda cans from the cooler–anything liable to freeze, spoil and attract unwanted visitors. Wash out the ice box and leave the door open.
It's a sound idea to remove all the clothing and fabric items too, such as PFDs, foul weather gear, bedding and spare sets of clothes. Take it home, wash it and store it for next season (a couple large duffle bags usually work). That will give mold and mildew one less place to live. Vacuum the carpets and drapes, wipe out the cabinets and clean the head and the shower. Make sure the interior is dry and leave compartments open for better air flow. There's no sense coming back to a moldy interior in the spring.
Now is the time to hang the anti-mildew bags, open a few boxes of baking soda and distribute cups of desiccant throughout the boat. Desiccants are materials that pull moisture from the air and there are several different kinds available at marine store. Most often, they are sold as a block or small pellets that come in their own cup. I like to put at least one in the galley, the head, the cabin and the v-berth, just to name a few spots. More is better, especially if you are shrink-wrapping the boat and won't be able to get back inside until the spring.
Many owners take the time to wash and wax the hull one last time. This gives the hull a little more protection and makes clean-up faster in the spring. Put all the boat's covers on and be sure that the inflatable, tender or kayak is cared for, either stored on land or covered against the elements.
SHRINK WRAP
Shrink wrapping is one of the more popular options to protect boats over the winter. This method employs a plastic cover that is draped over the boat and then heated until it shrinks. There are three types of shrink-wrap film in common use. White film is common because it reflects heat and keeps the boat from getting hot inside during sunny winter days; blue film is used in colder climates because it allows some heat build-up; and clear film is used by owners who live aboard because it allows more natural light.
The installation of shrink-wrap begins with an examination of the boat's exterior. Antennas need to be lowered, and can be protected inside a piece of PVC pipe. Having to cut shrink-wrap film from around your antenna in the spring is no fun. Any sharp projections will need to be covered with padding–carpet scraps are good–to to prevent the film from tearing. Large open areas like rear cockpits may need to have a supporting structure to prevent the film from sagging and forming a pocket where water could collect and freeze.
PAUL ESTERLEFinal tightening with the propane burner on a wand.The next step is to place a belly band around the lower part of the hull. This band is made from a nylon strapping material that's about three-quarters of an inch wide. It may need to be temporarily taped in place to keep it from dropping off the hull. The film is then draped over the hull with generous overhangs all around. The installer tucks the film under and behind the belly band, presenting a smooth outer surface so ice and snow won't collect.
After the film is pulled tight and tucked, the installer will begin shrinking the film with a propane-fired burner. This process is where the skill of the installer comes in. Place the burner too far away from the film and it won't shrink; place it too close and you'll burn a hole in it. Place it just right (apologies to Goldilocks) and the film shrinks tight around the boat–snow and ice will slide right off.
WAIT, THERE'S MORE
But the process isn't finished. Several vents should be installed to let air flow through the boat, because improper ventilation can lead to the development of excessive mold and mildew. The vents are taped in place over holes cut in the film. If you plan on getting inside the boat during the winter, you can also have a zippered door installed.
Shrink-wrapping isn't cheap but you can do it yourself if you want to save a few dollars. Often a group of boat owners will work together to purchase the necessary equipment and film, then help each other wrap their boats.
Just make sure the film is properly tightened. Loose or improperly tightened film can flail in the wind and damage the gel coat on your boat. Make sure nothing can poke through the wrap and that there is adequate ventilation.
Once it's done, you can start thinking about the spring and your efforts to properly dispose of the shrink-wrap. Most shrink-wrap suppliers will give you recycling bags for the used film.
FRAMES AND COVERS
In the days before plastic tarps and shrink-wrap, frames and canvas covers were the standard. Even now, many boat owners use some kind of frame to support their winter cover, whatever it is made of. These are the funny constructions you see when you walk the marina–everyone does it differently.
The three most common materials for these frames are wood, PVC pipe and metal tubing. Wooden frames range from those quickly thrown together from scraps of lumber to finely-fitted frames assembled with precision so they can be assembled and disassembled year after year.
Most have a center ridge beam with supporting rafters, and are fastened down so that they cannot shift or move. These frames should not use the stanchions for support, because wind and snow loads can loosen or bend them. Any places where the cover may chafe should be padded with carpet scraps or other material. If you opt for a permanent, reusable frame, be sure to mark the pieces so you know how they fit together next year. Don't depend on your memory.
PVC has become a popular material for winter frames. It comes in a variety of sizes and there are many fittings available to facilitate construction. Most of PVC frames are designed to be used for many years. The pipes fit into couplers and are usually held in place with self-tapping sheet metal screws, which allow for easy disassembly. These structures are usually smoother and require little or no padding to protect the cover. As with wooden frames, make sure you mark the parts to make reassembly less of a jigsaw puzzle.
PAUL ESTERLEAn example of a frame made from an electrical conduit.Solid frames can also be made of common electrical conduit. It is relatively cheap and, with the aid of a conduit bender, can be formed into any shape needed. One firm makes a series of clamps and fittings expressly designed for building boat cover frames (see link below). Care needs to be taken to pad the ends of the tubing where it meets the deck.
FITTED COVERS
Fitted covers for smaller boats can be purchased off-the-shelf at many boating stores. The selection of sizes and material is vast. These covers generally fit over the top of the boat and hang down slightly below the gunnel. The bottom edge either has a draw-string or an elastic band. Some have loops around the bottom edge to allow the cover to be tied winds.
If you are going to buy a cover, make sure you get one that fits. Consult your manufacturer or an online user forum to see which covers work, and get a model number. You don't want to buy something and then have to return it or, worse, make do with an ill-fitting cover.
Boats with large cockpits need some kind of support system to keep the cover from sagging and pooling water, snow or ice. These supports can be anything from a batten attached on each side of the boat to a support pole installed to elevate the cover.
Fitted or custom covers can be made for larger boats with a winter frame. These can be quite elaborate, especially for sailboats stored with their masts up. Provisions should be made for tying the cover underneath the boat. Do not tie a cover to the boat's jack stands, because winter winds can pull the cover–and the stand.
TARPS
Another cover option is to use one or more tarps. They have the advantage of being inexpensive and available everywhere. There are three types of tarps that are commonly available, and they seem to be color coded.
The first is the ubiquitous blue plastic tarp, which are available in a wide range of sizes. They have edges with grommets and a plastic-mesh reinforcement. If you're lucky, you will get a year's use out of one.
PAUL ESTERLEA sailboat covered with a well tied-down blue tarp.White plastic tarps are slightly higher quality. They too, have a grommeted edge and reinforcement, and they do a better job of reflecting heat off the boat. The third type is a heavy-duty tarp, usually silver or brown, that is more expensive but lasts longer. You can expect about three years of service before UV and flex damage take their toll. I use one of these (a 20x30-foot model) to cover one of my project boats, and the cost is less than $70.
Whatever kind of tarp you use, it must be properly installed. That means padding sharp corners and providing a support structure for large open areas such as a cockpit. On one project boat, I run a large PVC pipe the length of the boat, over the top of the cabin. It is tied-off at the bow and stern and provides a smooth path for me to pull the tarp over the boat.
Tarps will take more time to tie-down properly than a fitted cover. And just as with shrink-wrap, you must be certain to secure the excess to prevent flogging or flapping in the wind. One trick is to attach gallon jugs of water to the grommets in order to hold the tarp down. You can actually buy fittings that screw onto the tops of gallon bottles.
There is, of course, one more option: You can do nothing at all. This is an option that more and more people are choosing. You will have to inspect the boat more often, but it eliminates the expense and possible damage from flogging covers and shifting frames.
I leave one of my boats uncovered with no ill effects. I check it regularly to keep the snow off and to make sure the cockpit drains are open, but that's about all that is needed. It also makes it easier for me to do projects aboard during some of the warmer, sunnier winter days. If you have a tight boat with no leaks, and you have the ability to keep a close eye on it, you might consider this option.
Whatever you do outside, make sure the boat gets cleaned inside–get that moldy bread out of the galley.
Paul Esterle is Technical Editor for Small Craft Advisor Magazine, and his freelance work has appeared in Sail, BoatWorks, Voyaging and Good Old Boat magazines. He has produced a series of boating videos and lectures widely. He also works at West Marine and has written product reviews for the company.