It's been a glorious day on the water. Heading back into the marina, the captain maneuvers his cruiser through the placid harbor and into the slip. It's time now to sip a cool one and watch the sun set over the marina – right after cleaning the boat.
If you think boating is about relaxing, you are half right. As all owners know, there's always some work to do, and the one chore that never goes away is cleaning.
Scrubbing your boat on a regular basis is good for just about everything on board (except perhaps your back). Hardware and rigging can be overcome by oxidation, corrosion or rust brought on by a buildup of salt water deposits. Canvas and sails can mold in the moist marine environment. And it all collects dirt.
A weekly hose down is a good place to start, whether or not you take the boat out. But with so many different materials on the boat – and some highly-specialized gear – special care is often warranted. Choosing the right cleaning products and using the right techniques can mean the difference between a spotless vessel and some unintended damage. Wipe the wrong cleaner across your chart plotter and it will never be the same. Douse some metals with bleach and they will pit overnight.
At the risk of missing the very tips that you think are the best – we all have our favorites – what follows is a primer on how to clean the most common items on a boat, based on research and interviews with cleaning experts. You probably won't clean everything every time you board, but the chances are good that you will find yourself addressing most of these items sooner or later.
HULL AND DECK
The chore you will do most often is clean the deck and hull. For fiberglass, you'll want to rinse your boat off completely before applying any cleaning products.
If you're a salt water boater, experts advocate hosing twice, with the second spray coming 20 minutes after the first. The idea is that salt liquefied but not washed away on the first rinse will be picked up by the second. The double rinse provides better protection against oxidation, which is the dull, cloudy or faded look brought about when the surfaces of your boat react to oxygen and sunlight.
A sponge and a non-detergent soapy solution work well on the hull while a soft bristle brush and that same soapy solution is good for use on the deck. Start rinsing at your boat's highest point, working your way down from bow to stern. The Yacht Council, a federation of yacht broker associations, recommends a pace that allows you to wash and dry as you progress, eliminating the possibility of dried soap, which can harm the finish, or water spots, which can be hard to remove.
Dry with a soft, lint-free cloth: A chamois, a drying mop or discarded cloth diapers – if you can find them – are all good choices.
To maintain your gel coat, you will need to wax it on a regular basis. Exactly how often is a matter of opinion. Boater's World recommends using several coats of a carnauba wax at least once during the season, and buffing for a shine. Charleston Boat Detailing advises waxing once a month and sealing with a product such as Interlux UV Protectant and Teflon Wax Sealer.
Of course, the proper strategy will vary according to the type of boat you have and the conditions where you keep it. You may want to check with your dealer or manufacturer to see which products they use and how often they apply them.
TEAK AND WOOD
If you have teak on your boat, regular care means more than just cleaning. Exterior teak, which can be found on decks, hand- and caprails, toe- and rubrails, even cockpit coaming, is a high-maintenance proposition.
If left to age naturally, teak's golden brown color changes, becoming light grey – sometimes almost black – depending upon the severity of the climate and airborne pollutants. Because scrubbing it tends to leave a mottled appearance, most boaters opt to use preservatives such as oil, sealer or varnish.
However you choose to treat the wood on your boat, you will almost always have to clean it first. Don Casey, author of This Old Boat and a source of boating advice for BoatUS, recommends first using the most mild cleaner available. He prefers a mixture that is 75 percent liquid laundry detergent and 25 percent chlorine bleach, which you can scrub onto the teak with a brush and let soak for several minutes before rinsing clean.
If stronger measures are required, proceed to a cleaner with oxalic acid, the active ingredient in most commercial teak cleaners. Here, Casey recommends wetting the teak, sprinkling on the cleaner and spreading it with a scrubbing pad or bronze wool pad. Steel wool is not recommended because it leaves a rusty, hard-to-remove residue. Rinse and brush the wood, letting it dry completely. Be sure to wet-down surrounding surfaces and keep them free of the cleaner because the acid is harmful to most other surfaces.
Two-part teak cleaners are extremely effective, but have an even more powerful acid content and should be used only when gentler methods have failed. You'll have to apply these with a nylon brush because the cleaner can dissolve natural bristles.
When using any teak cleaner, BoatUS advises avoiding fumes, wearing goggles and rubber gloves, having a hose on hand and ensuring that the area is thoroughly rinsed after treatment. If your skin comes into contact with the cleaner, rinse the affected area immediately.
When the wood is clean and dry, you can proceed with restoration and treatment.
METALS
Marine stainless steel resists rust and corrosion, but it is not impervious. Thankfully, it is relatively easy to keep clean.
Regular washing with water and a mild, non-abrasive cleaner is the key. Under no circumstances should you use sandpaper or steel wool, which may actually cause rusting. After cleaning, you can apply a light coat of one of the polishes specially formulated for stainless and buff it. There are also wax sealer and protectants available.
Aluminum too can benefit from regular maintenance. Untreated aluminum can pit, particularly in a salt water environment. Once pitted, it may take power tools to fix it – an arduous task that is easily avoided. Use a product formulated for anodized aluminum, and pay particular attention to tubing directly beneath the hard-top, canvas or radar arches. These areas do not usually get rinsed by rain and do not dry as fast as other areas because they are shielded from the sun.
One additional caution: Never use bleaches or chlorides, which can stain or pit your hardware.
WINDOWS
New vinyl windows are beautiful, clear, soft and supple. But the material is UV sensitive, and over time, and with exposure to sunlight and the elements, it can get downright unsightly. The trick is to maintain a top coat and guard against UV damage.
As with any part of your boat, washing your vinyl windows regularly is an important first step. Spray gently to remove loose dirt and dissolve salt. Then wash, also gently, with a mild soap and water solution – nothing stronger. Detergents or harsh cleansers will damage the vinyl. Rinse again with fresh water and dry thoroughly.
At this point, you'll want to apply a protective product of some sort. Boat Docs 1, a boat detailing and yacht maintenance service in Florida, recommends 303 Aerospace Protectant. Powerboat Reports reviewed 14 plastic cleaners in a 2003 test, and cited two products, Armada 210 and Plexus, out of nine spray applications. Another possibility is to check with the manufacturer or a local installer to see what is recommended.
Whatever you use, apply the protectant on both sides of the vinyl and polish with a clean and dry, lint-free cloth, taking care not to scratch the vinyl.
CANVAS AND CUSHIONS
A new bimini or dodger will set you back several thousand dollars, so it pays to take good care of the canvas.
Most on-deck boating canvas is an acrylic fiber such as Sunbrella. Woven to shorten drying time, Sunbrella and similar products are water-repellant and mildew and UV resistant. The manufacturer advises hosing it down with water on a monthly basis and suggests a more thorough cleaning every two to three years. (If you keep your boat in a saltwater environment you'll want to rinse the canvas after each use.)
For a more rigorous cleaning, there are choices. Machine washing may work on small pieces that can fit in your machine, provided there are no vinyl window inserts. Alternatively, you can wash it by hand using a non-detergent soap and warm or cold water, then let it air dry. Do not use a clothes dryer.
Most often, you'll clean canvas fabric while still on its frame on your boat, because removal and refitting can be a major endeavor. Brush off the loose dirt and hose down the fabric. Using a cleaning mixture of water and a mild, non-detergent soap, brush the fabric with a soft bristle brush and allow the soap to soak in. Rinse well and air dry.
For persistent stains, such as those caused by mildew, you can try spot cleaning with a mixture of four ounces of chlorine bleach, two ounces of mild, non-detergent soap and one gallon of cool water. There are many off-the-shelf marine products available, as well.
Keep in mind that canvas may need to be treated to replenish its water-repellant characteristics every few years, or even after a vigorous cleaning. Sunbrella's manufacturer recommends 303 High Tech Fabric Guard, which is sprayed on in two thin, even coats, allowing the first coat to air dry before repeating the second.
Exterior vinyl cushions are also subjected to harsh treatment, including sunlight, rain, salt spray and abuse from passengers. Regular cleaning to remove or prevent mold, followed by conditioning against the elements, will make them last longer.
Most cleaning can be done with warm, soapy water and a clean-water rinse. If necessary, use a medium bristle brush and scrub lightly to loosen dirt from stitching. Dry with a soft, absorbent cloth and apply a protectant. There are many to choose from.
SAILS
Sails come in a variety of fabrics, including Dacron, nylon and kevlar. All of them can benefit from regular cleaning, a maintenance project that is not undertaken nearly often enough, according to Casey. Salt crystals abrade sails, and moisture can cause them to mildew, which shortens the life expectancy. So, too, does putting them in a washing machine – something that is not recommended.
To properly clean sails, place them on a smooth surface. Hasse & Company Port Townsend Sails advises using a mild soapy solution and a soft bristle brush to remove dirt and salt on Dacron sails. A mixture of two tablespoons Woolite, one to two cups of vinegar and one gallon of water is another option. Never use bleach or other solvents. Rinse thoroughly until all soap residue is gone. For nylon and Kevlar, they recommend rinsing with fresh water only.
Dry sails by hanging in a well-ventilated area. When completely dry, fold or roll and store in a dry ventilated area that is not subject to direct heat.
THE ANCHOR LOCKER
This is one place that is often overlooked, but the anchor locker can get nasty in a hurry. A little regular maintenance – and a few good habits – go a long way.
Get in the practice of hosing down the chain and rode after every use. If your boat is equipped with a washdown system, you can do it as anchor and line are brought back on board (for an article on installing washdown systems, see link below). If you don't have a washdown system, do it back at the dock.
Chain gets dirty. Even a relatively short time anchorage in muddy waters can yield an oozy mess that will play havoc with the insides of your anchor locker if you don't wash it off. Marine organisms and mold can grow, and the salt can corrode metal quickly. Cleaning the line can preserve both chain and locker.
A good rule of thumb is to clean the locker itself annually, removing both chain and rode (you can inspect your anchor line for wear at the same time) and scrubbing the locker with a non-detergent, soapy solution. Rinse the chain and rode, using a metal brush on any corroded areas, and scrub off any slime or mold. Let it dry on the deck. While it is drying, you can hose the locker with fresh water and check for drainage problems, then let it air dry.
Another overlooked area is dock lines. Dried salt, sand and dirt can act as an abrasive, shortening their lifespan. One common method of cleaning dock lines – a chore to be undertaken at least once a year – is to soak them in a mild soap and water solution for several hours, stirring occasionally to release any grit caught between the strands. Rinse the soapy lines with fresh water and lay them on the deck to dry.
ELECTRONICS SCREENS
Cleaning the screens on your electronics deserves both caution and careful consideration. That's because many of these screens have anti-glare coatings that are susceptible to damage. Rub the wrong fluid or the wrong type of cloth on one, and you'll see the problem quickly. They can scratch or get a patchy appearance. Windex is an absolute no-no. So are paper towels and tissues. And you don't want to clean a screen when it's hot, either.
So what does work? Tap water and a soft, lint-free cloth do the job. Wet the cloth and rub gently over a cold screen. Wipe dry with a fresh, dry cloth.
Or you can go higher-tech with Purosol's new Sport/Marine Cleaner. Introduced in May of this year, it is an enzyme-based spray cleaner formulated specifically for outdoor electronic equipment. Non-toxic, hypo-allergenic, and containing no CFCs, detergents or solvents, it has received a lot of attention.
Spray it on and wipe it off with Purosol's Ultra-Fine Microfiber Cloth or a soft, lint-free cloth of your choice. The cleaner is available at marine retailers and through the company's website (see link below).
THE SANITARY SYSTEM
If there's one area you want to keep clean at all times, it's the head. Fortunately, the task is neither particularly time-consuming nor difficult. Most standard bathroom cleaners will work.
Keep in mind, however, that most marine systems have rubber gaskets and flexible tubing that may not react well to harsh chemicals, and that anything flushed down the toilet is going to land in a tank or in the sea. Avoid bleach and ammonia. Clean the bowl and flush with water. On larger boats, there is apt to be a shower head nearby that can facilitate the operation handily.
To clean the holding tank, have the system pumped out at an approved station. You can get this service free in many areas with a fuel stop – and dumping waste into waterways is often a crime. While the pump is running, you can flush fresh water into the toilet to help clean out the lines and tank.
There are a bevy of commercial products available to care for your sanitary system, including enzymes, deodorants and lubricants. Before applying a product, check the manufacturer's literature (usually available on the company website) for warnings and read the label on the product, so that you know what you are adding to the system. Follow the directions carefully, use only recommended amounts and try to work with only one product at a time.
THE BILGE
There's no question about it, a dirty bilge is a problem. It can cause unpleasant odors that start off as a sort of musty damp smell and progress to something downright putrid. The associated gunk from a dirty bilge can clog the bilge pump, and you can face stiff fines if oily bilge water is pumped out of your boat and into sea.
Of course, there are several ways to avoid all this. The simple answer to a mild problem is to pump the bilge dry, clean the strainer on the pump, remove any loose dirt and debris and then use a commercial bilge cleaner to scour and remove oil stains. Pay attention to the area around the limber holes, the drains between compartments, which have a tendency to become incrusted with oil, grease and miscellaneous marine goo. Be sure that the float switches operate properly. You can then remove any remaining dirty water and rinse the bilge thoroughly.
Another strategy is to use one of the many cleaning products designed to do the work for you. These degreasing products – Meguiar's No. 60, Heller Glanz or Starbrite Super Orange Bilge Cleaner are just a few – are designed to work while you are boating. Just pour the recommended quantity into the bilge prior to your departure and the rolling action of your boat will churn the solution, cleansing the inner hull of oil and grime. Back at the dock, you can pump the solution out and dispose of it properly (remember, pumping waste into a waterway is often a crime). You can then clean the pump and check for any remaining debris.
Whatever method you use, a hand-operated pump or a small wet-and-dry vacuum can help a great deal.
IS THAT ALL?
Of course, the things on a boat that need cleaning can seem endless. Raw-water strainers need maintenance, the tender needs scrubbing – many mechanics even recommend cleaning your boat's engine at least once a year. The sheer number of these chores can be daunting.
One option is to hire some help. Marinas, detailers and maintenance companies are available to take over basic cleaning for those who are willing to pay. Prices vary by region, but you can expect to lay out $70 to $150 for a basic exterior scrub. Special services, such as interiors or bilges, cost more.
For those who prefer to do it themselves – or who have to – a few minutes of organization can go far. List the items that require attention, the products needed to clean them and then rough out a schedule for the work. Strainers can be inspected regularly, when you check the oil. The engine can be wiped down during winterization. The idea is to spread out tasks – and the costs. If you have family or crew to shoulder some of the burden, so much the better.
While you are making your list, devote some time to choosing the right cleaning products. A little research, whether online or at a marine store, can insure you don't make costly mistakes, and that the products you use are safe and environmentally friendly. After that, as the saying goes, there's nothing to it except to do it – the drink and the sunset are waiting.
Linda Hoff is a former communications manager turned freelance writer. Her articles have appeared in Woman’s Outlook magazine and on Rezoom.com. She has won awards for corporate filmmaking and for her first full-length film script.