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Published on MadMariner.com (http://www.madmariner.com)
Do It Right
By Paul Esterle

It is as inevitable as the change of seasons – the onslaught of spring commissioning articles. Every magazine and website – including this one – provides voluminous check lists chock-full of things to do before you launch, from changing the oil to lubricating zipper cushions.

Sure, it's all good stuff. But it's also overwhelming – and sometimes unrealistic. If we followed all that good advice, we'd be splashing our boats in October. Most of us cover the basics to keep the boat safe and seaworthy, and do our best with the rest.

So rather than give you more to do, we decided to focus this year's commissioning stories on what not to do – 12 mistakes to avoid during spring outfitting (today) and five areas of your boat that should not be neglected (tomorrow). The idea is to help you spend more time on the water by eliminating common errors as you get the boat ready.

Woody Wax is one of the companies who can supply excellent non-skid waxes.: WOODY WAXESWOODY WAXESWoody Wax is one of the companies who can supply excellent non-skid waxes.Of course, if you are looking for the traditional Spring lists, you'll find what you need on Mad Mariner's Spring Outfitting Page. There are stories on Planning Your Outfitting, Getting the Work Done, Choosing a Yard, Surviving a Survey, and Sling Safety. There is also plenty of help for do-it-yourselfers, including expert articles on Cleaning Your Boat, Greening Your Boat, Maintaing a Marine Diesel, Repairing Sails, -- even caring for those zippers.

If you want to look ahead to this season's cruising, we have articles on Planning Your Cruise, Preparing for Your Cruise, Provisioning the Boat, Basic Navigation and a great deal more.

So sure, read up and start making your lists, but also consider some of these tips to help ensure a safer, easier boating season.

DON'T WAX THE NON-SKID

We all want our boats to look their best before launch, so most check lists include a thorough wash and wax of the hull and deck. But don't use that hull wax on your non-skid unless you enjoy the sensation of walking on ice. There are several good waxes for non-skid, which give you the protection you need without the attendant risk. Woody Wax makes a fiberglass and non-skid wax for this purpose.

DON'T FORGET THE WATER HEATER

Flushing the antifreeze from the water system is on everyone's check list, but how many boaters remember that they also need to flush the antifreeze from the water heater? I guarantee that you will never forget to do this after you fire up the engine and cook that water heater full of antifreeze. I wish I had a great way to get the resulting bad taste out of the water, but I don't – so remember to flush the system first.

Pettit supplies a full range of ntifouling solutions; hard to soft, fiberglass to aluminum.: PETTIT PAINT SUPPLIESPETTIT PAINT SUPPLIESPettit supplies a full range of ntifouling solutions; hard to soft, fiberglass to aluminum.DON'T NEGLECT BATTERIES

Many folks remove the batteries from their boats in the fall and reinstall them in the spring, but don't assume all is well because they were kept at home. Before going to all the effort of lifting your batteries into the boat, take a few minutes to check them over.

The first step is to check the electrolyte levels in the cell, if you have flooded-cell batteries. If the cells are low, fill them with distilled water. Then put the battery on charge. If you have an AGM or Gel battery, make sure your charger is configured correctly. The charger should also be a three stage unit, to prevent overcharging. Once charged, check the specific gravity of the electrolyte with a battery hydrometer, to make sure it complies with manufacturer's specifications. And be sure to use a decent hydrometer – I have had accuracy problems with some of the cheaper models.

OR THE REST OF THE SYSTEM

With the battery in good shape, inspect your electrical system – especially connections such as terminal strips and bus bars – for signs of corrosion (the green stuff). Corrosion build-up on the connections will raise the resistance of that connection, and may contribute to overheated wiring and electrical fires, not to mention the erratic behavior in your electronics.

DON'T GOOF THE PAINT

One of the rituals of spring is the application of bottom paint. Bottom paint is expensive so many folks look for bargains. However, before you buy, make sure you know what kind of paint is currently on your hull.

There are two types of paint: hard and soft (ablative). You can apply hard paint over hard paint, soft paint over soft paint and soft paint over hard. But don't even think of applying cheap hard paint over soft ablative paint, because it will soon slough off.

There are hundreds of different brands and formulas of bottom paint on the market. Most all of them work well in certain circumstances, but not all work well in all locations. Network with your local boating buddies and find out what they use and how successful the application has been. Don't depend on just one opinion. Get a consensus and follow it.

DON'T CHOOSE THE WRONG TAPE

You will find dozens of different tapes in your local boat store, from the cheap tan masking tape to the expensive fine line tapes and duct tapes, and each has its own purpose and use. One critical factor is the length of time they can be left on the hull. Leave that tan masking tape on long enough and it will take a chisel to get it off, damaging the gel coat.

Many boaters use blue painter's tape for masking the bottom paint, sealing the top of the paint with a rounded took (like a screwdriver top) to prevent bleed through. This is a good solution if painting is going to take just a day or two. But if the project is going to take longer, choose a different tape.

DON'T ASSUME THE FUEL IS FINE

The current recommendation for gasoline-fueled boats is to fill the tanks about 95 percent full in the fall. This minimizes the amount of free air in the tank, while allowing sufficient room for the gas to expand and contract without spilling.

However, ethanol-enhanced gasoline has the unfortunate habit of phase separating. If enough water is absorbed by the gas, the ethanol and water drop to the bottom of the tank and the bad gas rises to the top. There is no way recombine them. Bad gas has to be pumped out and disposed (properly please).

The popular blue masking tape is good for up to seven days on your boat.: WEST MARINEWEST MARINEThe popular blue masking tape is good for up to seven days on your boat.If there is any question about your fuel, ask your marina if they can "stick" your tanks. There is a special paste that can be applied to the end of a stick. The stick is used to sound the tank, and any water in the fuel will turn the paste a distinctive color.

DON'T NEGLECT PAPERWORK

Before you launch, make sure all your paperwork is up to date: insurance premiums paid, slip contract signed and registration current. If you don't do it now, you never will – and having this stuff in order is part of good seamanship.

It doesn't hurt to go over your insurance policy with your agent to make sure the values and provisions still match the current configuration and location of your boat. Many contracts specify the location of your boat, which can have an effect on your premiums and coverage restrictions.

Also, reconcile your insurance coverage with your current slip contract. Most marinas require at least $300,000 in liability coverage, but some marinas have increased that to $500,000 or more. Many marinas have also added "hold harmless" clauses that shift liability to your insurance policy, regardless of who is at fault.

Your registration needs to be current and the sticker in place. If you have a boat registered in one state and slipped in another, they'll eventually catch up with you. Most states have a grace period. After that, you are expected to register.

3M #4811 Extended Service Tape is good for up to a year on your boat: WEST MARINEWEST MARINE3M #4811 Extended Service Tape is good for up to a year on your boatDON'T USE OLD CHARTS

Make sure your chartplotter has current charts. Check with your chip supplier to see if there are any updates, and be on the lookout for special "deals" on trade-ins or new chips. Look over your current paper charts too, to see if new versions are available. You can find a listing of current NOAA charts online. Even if your charts are current, you'll need to check the Local Notices for Mariners for updates.

The same goes for any chart books or cruising guides you use.

DON'T ANGER YOUR MARINA

More and more marinas are committing to "clean marina" practices – and these apply to boaters doing their own work, too. Many the rules revolve around the proper application of bottom paints, and other practices you use when working.

For example, marinas require sanding to be done with vacuums attached to control dust, and scrapping the bottom of your boat may require a tarp to collect debris. Check with your marina to find out the rules and follow them, both for the work and the cleanup.

Don't just pitch everything into the dumpster. Handle paints, solvents, fuel, oil and other materials properly, so that they don't enter the drains. And if you shrink wrap your boat, inquire about recycling the discarded plastic. Most marinas or wrapping companies have a recycling option.

don't throw your shrink wrap in the dumpster! Dr. Shrinkwrap, for example, has a complete recycling service, including the bags.: DR. SHRINKWRAPDR. SHRINKWRAPdon't throw your shrink wrap in the dumpster! Dr. Shrinkwrap, for example, has a complete recycling service, including the bags.DON'T BE UNSAFE

Boatyards can be dangerous – I once fell off a boat on dry land. Make sure ladders are set at their proper angles. Tie the top of the ladder to the boat to keep it from slipping from side to side. I also use a wooden keel block at the base to keep it from kicking out.

Many of the chemicals we use to prep our boats are dangerous to touch or breathe and can be exceedingly dangerous if splashed in your eyes. So wear proper gear: gloves, a respirator and eye protection.

DON'T NEGLECT THE TRAILER

A few minutes of inspection can save a world of hurt here. Check the tires for wear and repack the trailer bearings. Check the brake pads, brake actuator and hydraulic fluid; the trailer wiring and lights for proper operation and corrosion; and the trailer winch cable for broken strands. And, of course, make sure the trailer license is current. You need the trailer to get to the water – so take care of it, too.

TOMORROW: Five neglected areas on your boat.


Paul Esterle is technical editor for Small Craft Advisor Magazine, and his freelance work has appeared in Sail, BoatWorks, Voyaging and Good Old Boat magazines. He has produced a series of boating videos and lectures widely. He also works at West Marine and has written product reviews for the company.


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