If you operate a recreational boat, the government requires you to carry life jackets, distress signals, a fire extinguisher – even a horn. But you're free to venture to the ends of the earth without a life raft that could save you in the event of fire or sinking.

While it's a safe bet that you value your life more than the bureaucrats do, selecting, equipping, installing, and maintaining a raft appropriate to your needs is no easy task.

Dozens of makes and models crowd the market, including rafts made by Avon, Givens, Switlik, Winslow, Zodiac and many more. Some manufacturers have numerous options to choose from and the list of variables when comparing them can seem endless. Material, construction, size, shape, canopy design and ballast configuration are just a few.

Rafts are also expensive. High-end rafts cost three times as much as the budget models – and sometimes more. Some low-end coastal four- or six-person rafts sell for less than $2,000 while top-grade ocean rafts can cost more than $7,000. A cradle can add $450 and a hydrostatic release another $250.Steven Callahan

Moreover, a more expensive raft is not necessarily a better raft. Price competition among manufacturers is intense and there is a trend toward shaving construction and component costs. Re-packers observe that the least expensive brands to buy tend to be the most expensive to repack and repair.

Shopping is further complicated by the idea that you are buying something you hope never to use, and in the process confronting a unique set of questions: how much is your life worth and would a more expensive raft materially improve your chances of survival?

MAKING DECISIONS

Ultimately, the difference between inexpensive and pricey rafts comes down to materials, construction, and options. Which raft is best for you is a highly personal decision that will be dictated by a number of factors, but there are some general truths that most experts would agree upon.

The first is that everyone should have some type of raft, unless you operate an extremely small boat that makes it impractical (in which case you should be reading about personal floatation devices). If you have to leave your boat, you want to have some option other than getting into the water.

The second is that any life raft is better than none at all. It is better to choose something that you can afford and to set it up properly than to hold out for a more deluxe model.

Another important factor is the type of boating you do and where you do it. A family cruising on a river in warm climates and a couple making an Atlantic passage have very different needs. Put your aspirations aside and ask yourself what kind of boating you do right now, then evaluate rafts through that lens. When your usage changes, you can re-evaluate and adjust your equipment accordingly.

The last point – and perhaps the most important – is that buying a raft almost always involves making a series of compromises. Your "big boat" isn't perfect, and your raft probably won't be either. You may find a ballast configuration you like, but the canopy is not what you wanted. Or you like the canopy and the ballast, but not the boarding ladder. What is important is that the raft addresses the requirements at the top of your list and gives you the highest margin of safety for the price.

The best way to find that raft is to study up. Information that can be used to make meaningful comparisons is not easily found, so the best strategy is to take a long-term approach and consult multiple sources.

Read books by survivors, product tests in magazines and the manufacturers' web sites. Talk to sales and service people, especially those who repair and re-pack rafts. And go see the rafts themselves (boat shows are a good place to see several in one place). Soon enough, you'll have a working knowledge of the market.

STANDARDS, SIZE AND WEIGHT

For our purposes here, life rafts are survival rafts, the type stored in a canister or valise and deployed only during major emergencies. We are not talking about dinghies, tenders, sport boats or life raft alternatives such as the inflatable buoyant apparatus or the rescue pod, though any of these might be helpful in a crisis.

For professional mariners who operate fishing and passenger vessels, the choice is somewhat simplified by the fact that the law requires rafts to be Coast Guard Approved, and even specifies the equipment packs they carry – SOLAS A, SOLAS B or Coastal – depending upon how far from the coast the vessel operates.Glen Justice

Your choice can be limited simply by looking for rafts with Coast Guard approval, which eliminates about half of all available models (for more information, see link below). However, that also includes some of the highest-quality rafts available, which are required for or selected by people such as ocean yacht racers, for whom effectiveness is paramount and cost is no object.

Another strategy is to look for similar quality standards, such as approval by SOLAS, which is an international convention that stands for Safety of Life at Sea (for more information, see link below). Other standards include ISO 9650 and the International Sailing Federation, or ISAF (formerly known as the ORC, or Offshore Racing Council.)

Size is another good place to start. Capacity ratings are based on a floor area of four square feet per person. That's not much, especially for a group of big, wet, probably seasick survivors, though some raft models provide more than the required minimum space.

Consider buying a raft rated for at least 50 percent more people than you might actually have on board. That won't be a problem for vessels with small crews, given that the minimum size Coast Guard-approved raft is four persons and the smallest SOLAS raft is six persons.

Another consideration is weight. While a rugged raft is paramount, it is an open question whether a heavier, more durable fabric – and the attendant higher cost – is an advantage.

A lighter raft that can be readily hand-launched by any member of the crew may be safer than a heavy one that will only deploy when the boat sinks from under it. A lighter raft is easier to right should it inflate upside down or capsize. It affords more options for installation, is easier to remove for repacking, and is less expensive to ship. On the other hand a heavier raft is more stable in the water and probably more durable.

DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

Quality life rafts come in a variety of designs. They may have a single flotation tube or double independent stacked flotation tubes. They may be square, rectangular or multi-sided. Canopies may be supported by single, double or multiple inflatable arches. Ballast may consist of one or more water pockets of various sizes. Even the weight varies – some six-person rafts weigh far less than 100 pounds while others weight far more than 150 pounds.

In general, the higher-price rafts have double-tube flotation, multi-arch canopy support, inflatable or insulated floors, a boarding ramp and four or five large ballast pockets (or a single large hemispherical pocket). They usually weigh more than 100 pounds.

Rafts may be made of natural rubber, butyl rubber, polyurethane, neoprene or PVC (polyvinylchloride), each of which has advantages and disadvantages. Some manufacturers use two-ply fabrics and others do not.Steven Callahan

Seams on rafts made of rubber and neoprene have to be hand-glued, while polyurethane and PVC seams can be heat welded by machine. Welded seams resist slipping, which can cause slight deformation of the boat over time, though this is less of a problem on rafts because they are not inflated during storage. Some rafts are constructed with both welding and gluing.

Rubber and polyurethane are believed to have the longest useful life – 15 to 20 years if properly maintained – but other materials may be more resistant to abrasion and rotting. Some users also object strongly to the odor of rubber. PVC is popular because it is least expensive and light in weight.

Many raft specialists consider polyurethane to be the best because it has less odor than rubber, is completely impermeable to air, and it resists abrasion, UV light and chemicals. It is used on many of the most expensive, most highly-rated rafts.

BUOYANCY AND BALLAST

Round or multi-sided equilateral shaped rafts are assumed to be slightly more structurally resilient, but square or rectangular shapes better accommodate several bodies packed in side by side, sardine fashion.

Double buoyancy tubes provide more freeboard, better back support and more redundant buoyancy than single-tube design. In any but tropical waters, a double, inflatable, or foam-insulated floor is important for conserving body heat, but this feature is not found in all rafts.

The canopy should be open for easy entry when the raft deploys, and should have a convenient and secure means of closing to keep seas out. Canopy support tubes should be auto-inflating, and a single tube is minimal; two or four are better. Viewing ports are useful, but found only on the more expensive rafts. Some people find that an orange canopy interior promotes seasickness.

A self-inflating boarding ramp is better than a web ladder. In tests, even some uninjured and non-hypothermic volunteers have been unable to get into rafts that lacked boarding ramps. Rafts should also have hand holds to help the crew maintain stability and attachment points so that gear can be tied in, though you will have to inspect the rafts to look for these features because they are often not listed on spec sheets.

Much has been written about the relative merits of various ballast devices. Generally, the big hemispherical or toroidal bags do more to prevent capsizing than do the smaller v-pockets. In most cases, the bigger the ballast bags the better, and they should have weights sewn into their lower seams to make them fill immediately.

Less has been written about the "sea anchor" or drogue, which is intended to keep the raft from blowing away quickly and works as part of the stability system, holding the windward side of the raft down to prevent capsize.

Whatever model you chose, the drogue should be self-deploying and use a swivel to accommodate twisting and prevent fouling. Your raft should have rugged attachment points that are capable of withstanding the heavy loads placed by a sea anchor.

SURVIVAL EQUIPMENT

A cost-conscious captain has to decide which features and options are essential. Options include various equipment packs, as well as accessories like paddles and bailers, strobe lights and survival rations.

Unless you have one of the SOLAS A or B packs (for more information, see link below), you may be surprised at how little Survival Equipment your raft contains. The Survival Equipment Pack, often referred to as the SEP, on a typical coastal raft may contain no food, water, flares, signaling devices (other than a mirror) or first aid supplies. The "repair kit" probably contains some patches and glue that can only be applied to a clean, dry surface.Steven Callahan

The good news is that most packs have some available space and you can add a few items of your own, at least at repack time if not prior to original purchase. The less expensive the raft, the more you'll probably want to add. Small items like spare eyeglasses, personal medicines, seasickness drugs, and duct tape can easily be included. Some people also add electronic signaling devices.

Whatever your pack contains, make sure that your raft has an adequate bailer, sponges, a knife, a manual inflation pump, paddles, a water-activated light, and written instructions in a language you can read. Published life raft reviews describe many rafts that are deficient in these categories. Also, buy a set of raft repair clamps. The threaded plugs provided with many rafts are not adequate for closing anything but small puncture holes.

It is important to carry a separate "ditch bag" – a waterproof dry bag, specially marked and readily accessible – filled with necessary items that are not packed into the raft.

Ditch bags are a topic all their own, but most will include water bottles, concentrated foods like energy bars, space blankets, extra clothing, a strobe or flares, a hand-held marine VHF, a GPS, an EPIRB or the new Personal Locator Beacon and even a satellite phone. The bag must be stowed where you or your crew can easily grab it in case of an emergency.

The ditch bag allows you to customize its contents. You can buy batteries, flares, over-the-counter medications and other supplies at discount store prices, rather than pay the premium for Coast Guard-approved supplies. Be sure to annually replace items that may go bad.

THE CONTAINER

One of the most important decisions concerns container and carrying options.

Rafts with SOLAS A and SOLAS B packs and those rated for "ocean service" or "limited service" must be stowed in float-free containers, which means hard canisters mounted in above-deck cradles. Federal law allows other classes of rafts to be stowed anywhere they are readily accessible, so soft valise containers technically are permissible.

Most commercial operators opt for a canister pack strapped to a cradle mounted on the deck or cabin roof, employing a float-free design with a hydrostatic release, which reads water pressure and automatically deploys the raft. The canister preserves vessel interior space, protects the raft from the elements and physical damage, and minimizes the risk of the raft being trapped below decks in an emergency. Any raft of a capacity of more than six persons is too bulky and heavy to be manhandled through companionways anyway.

Most raft containers are constructed of heavy, rigid fiberglass, although some newer models are made of a lightweight plastic material. The best canisters have lips and seals that prevent water from getting inside. Look for handgrips on the container so that the unit can be deployed manually, even with bulky survival suit mittens on.

THE CRADLE

A properly-designed float-free cradle should be welded to the deck of a steel or aluminum boat or through-bolted with backing plates on a fiberglass vessel.Glen Justice

Some operators use close-fitting cradles without straps to secure the raft so that it will float free in the case of a sinking, without need for a hydrostatic release. This design simplifies manual launching but raises the possibility that a wave sweeping over the vessel could yank the raft canister out of its cradle.

The cradle setup must be designed to ensure easy deployment under unforeseeably adverse conditions, and every effort has to be applied to ensure that, once out of the cradle, the raft doesn't tangle in rigging or deck gear.

The Coast Guard and some other agencies advocate – and require on commercial vessels – a hydrostatic release mechanism on the cradle strap. Good idea, but they are expensive, require replacement every two years, and can prevent manual launch if not properly installed or if crew members don't understand how to use them.

They may be a better idea on steel boats or sailboats with heavily-ballasted keels, but most wooden and fiberglass boats will sink slowly, if at all, giving the crew plenty of time to manually deploy the raft. And in the case of fire you want that raft off there fast. The last thing you ever want to do, especially in cold northern climes, is go into the water. Waiting for your boat to sink far enough for the hydrostatic release to let go of your raft can be a scary proposition.

INSTALLATION

Install the raft where it is accessible, easy to deploy, clear of any rigging and protected as much as possible from assault by boarding seas and heavy spray. Canisters are designed to shed water, but most are not waterproof. Water that works its way into the canister quickly degrades the raft and its components, including the CO2 cylinder and its fittings.

Whatever you spend on your raft, the investment is diminished if safety is compromised by improper installation or if people do not know how to use it.

Be sure you know exactly how the painter, weak link and hydrostatic release are to be connected to the cradle or boat. Coast Guard inspection teams often find these items incorrectly installed. Improper attachment may prevent the raft from deploying.

Read the manual. Better yet, participate in a training session where a raft is deployed, and practice boarding it, both from in and out of the water. Brief passengers and crew so they can deploy it if you are incapacitated.

INSPECTION AND REPACK

Remember that although you can buy many kinds of rafts from many catalogs and dealers, you want get yours inspected and repacked facilities approved by the Coast Guard and the manufacturer. There aren't as many such facilities as you might think, and it's important to know where the nearest station for your brand is located (for information, see link below).

Remember also that self-inflating rafts are often classified as hazardous materials, so they cannot be carried on passenger planes and can incur additional charges for shipping.

If a vessel is required by the Coast Guard to carry a life raft, that raft must be inspected and repacked annually at an approved facility (the one exception is that a new raft doesn't have to be inspected until the second year).Steven Callahan

The law does not require rafts that are carried voluntarily to be repacked on a regular schedule. However, failure to do so can invalidate warrantees and, in the event of an accident, may be used by an insurance company or plaintiff's attorney as evidence of an unseaworthy vessel and careless operation. Some newer rafts have a standard three-year repack schedule, and warranties are up to 12 years.

It can be aggravating to pay several hundred dollars each year for inspection and repack, especially if it is on the boat only during the season and is stored indoors the rest of the time. In non-mandatory situations, it may seem logical to stretch inspection intervals, or overlook them altogether. But there are good reasons not to.

Inspections detect small leaks and minor repairs can be made before problems become major and expensive. A raft can deteriorate quickly, especially if it gets wet inside the canister, and the only way to know that fabric is rotting or seams are delaminating is by inspection. Gas cylinders are also inspected and weighed, and valves examined to ensure that the raft will inflate if called upon to do so.

Furthermore, fifth-year inspections use the raft's own inflation system, after which the bottle is hydro-tested and the valve and firing head are rebuilt. At 10 years and every year after, a floor seam test is conducted.

Inspections are also a great opportunity to examine your raft while it is open, and re-packers generally welcome owners who want a look at their rafts. It allows you to become more familiar with your raft, get to see any problems that may be developing, have a chance to add supplementary items and come away with greater faith in your purchase.

Terry Johnson is a field agent with the Alaska Sea Grant Marine Advisory Program. He takes summers off to run a wildlife tour boat in remote western Alaska. A former commercial fisherman, he holds a Masters Degree in marine resource management and his work has appeared in numerous boating and fishing publications, including PassageMaker, Work Boat, Great Lakes Boating and Pacific Fishing, which ran an earlier version of this story.