If left to age naturally, teak's golden brown color changes, becoming light grey – sometimes almost black – depending upon the severity of the climate and airborne pollutants. Because scrubbing it tends to leave a mottled appearance, most boaters opt to use preservatives such as oil, sealer or varnish.
However you choose to treat the wood on your boat, you will almost always have to clean it first. Don Casey, author of This Old Boat and a source of boating advice for BoatUS, recommends first using the most mild cleaner available. He prefers a mixture that is 75 percent liquid laundry detergent and 25 percent chlorine bleach, which you can scrub onto the teak with a brush and let soak for several minutes before rinsing clean.
If stronger measures are required, proceed to a cleaner with oxalic acid, the active ingredient in most commercial teak cleaners. Here, Casey recommends wetting the teak, sprinkling on the cleaner and spreading it with a scrubbing pad or bronze wool pad. Steel wool is not recommended because it leaves a rusty, hard-to-remove residue. Rinse and brush the wood, letting it dry completely. Be sure to wet-down surrounding surfaces and keep them free of the cleaner because the acid is harmful to most other surfaces.
Two-part teak cleaners are extremely effective, but have an even more powerful acid content and should be used only when gentler methods have failed. You'll have to apply these with a nylon brush because the cleaner can dissolve natural bristles.
When using any teak cleaner, BoatUS advises avoiding fumes, wearing goggles and rubber gloves, having a hose on hand and ensuring that the area is thoroughly rinsed after treatment. If your skin comes into contact with the cleaner, rinse the affected area immediately.
When the wood is clean and dry, you can proceed with restoration and treatment.
METALS
Marine stainless steel resists rust and corrosion, but it is not impervious. Thankfully, it is relatively easy to keep clean.
Regular washing with water and a mild, non-abrasive cleaner is the key. Under no circumstances should you use sandpaper or steel wool, which may actually cause rusting. After cleaning, you can apply a light coat of one of the polishes specially formulated for stainless and buff it. There are also wax sealer and protectants available.
Aluminum too can benefit from regular maintenance. Untreated aluminum can pit, particularly in a salt water environment. Once pitted, it may take power tools to fix it – an arduous task that is easily avoided. Use a product formulated for anodized aluminum, and pay particular attention to tubing directly beneath the hard-top, canvas or radar arches. These areas do not usually get rinsed by rain and do not dry as fast as other areas because they are shielded from the sun.
One additional caution: Never use bleaches or chlorides, which can stain or pit your hardware.
WINDOWS
New vinyl windows are beautiful, clear, soft and supple. But the material is UV sensitive, and over time, and with exposure to sunlight and the elements, it can get downright unsightly. The trick is to maintain a top coat and guard against UV damage.
As with any part of your boat, washing your vinyl windows regularly is an important first step. Spray gently to remove loose dirt and dissolve salt. Then wash, also gently, with a mild soap and water solution – nothing stronger. Detergents or harsh cleansers will damage the vinyl. Rinse again with fresh water and dry thoroughly.
At this point, you'll want to apply a protective product of some sort. Boat Docs 1, a boat detailing and yacht maintenance service in Florida, recommends 303 Aerospace Protectant. Powerboat Reports reviewed 14 plastic cleaners in a 2003 test, and cited two products, Armada 210 and Plexus, out of nine spray applications. Another possibility is to check with the manufacturer or a local installer to see what is recommended.
Whatever you use, apply the protectant on both sides of the vinyl and polish with a clean and dry, lint-free cloth, taking care not to scratch the vinyl.
CANVAS AND CUSHIONS
A new bimini or dodger will set you back several thousand dollars, so it pays to take good care of the canvas.
Most on-deck boating canvas is an acrylic fiber such as Sunbrella. Woven to shorten drying time, Sunbrella and similar products are water-repellant and mildew and UV resistant. The manufacturer advises hosing it down with water on a monthly basis and suggests a more thorough cleaning every two to three years. (If you keep your boat in a saltwater environment you'll want to rinse the canvas after each use.)
For a more rigorous cleaning, there are choices. Machine washing may work on small pieces that can fit in your machine, provided there are no vinyl window inserts. Alternatively, you can wash it by hand using a non-detergent soap and warm or cold water, then let it air dry. Do not use a clothes dryer.
