Let's face it, rust and corrosion are problems for all boats, particularly those kept or used in saltwater. Virtually every surface is susceptible, from on-deck hardware to wiring and marine electronics. Even stainless steel is not impervious. So the question becomes, what can you do about it?

The first line of attack is prevention. Rinse your boat down frequently–at least after each use–and wash it with non-detergent soap to prevent a buildup of corrosive salt deposits. Metals can then be treated with rust inhibitors such as Corrosion X, Boeshield T-9 or Rust Free.

The next step is to bust rust and rust stains as soon as you see them. While heavily-rusted parts may require sanding or grinding–or even replacement–light rust can be vanquished with a little effort. Once rust is allowed to gain a foothold, it spreads like the plague, so it is best to treat and remove even minor problems fast.

Of course, which techniques and products work best is a matter of opinion and different experts offer different remedies. You can find what works best for you and your boat by trying different approaches over time–the important thing is to attack rust as soon as it appears.

WAX AND ACID

There are a bevy of products available, many of which are capable of handling everyday rust problems, but ask professionals how they handle rust, and they often reveal a trick or two.

Andrew Adams, of Charleston Boat Detailing, advocates wax for the removal of rust and rust stains. "Try a wax for light oxidation [first]," he said, "then move on to a wax for medium or heavy oxidation to remove rust from everything from gel coats to stainless to a painted surface."

He likens waxing out oxidation to wet sanding with a liquid or paste. "You just need different levels of grit in the wax itself," he says. "Wax for light oxidation is the equivalent of about 2,000-grain sandpaper. It works like a charm."

When asked if there are rust problems that don't respond to waxing, Adams' answer was unequivocal: "Not that I've found."

But there's more than one way to clean a boat. For instance, some recommend acid-based cleaners for removing rust stains from hulls and decks. Gel formulas such as FSR Fiberglass Stain Removal or Y-10 Stain Absorbent Gel are brushed on, allowed to sit and then rinsed.

COLA AND SALT

Want something less high-tech? Ryan's Lakeside Marine in Mayfield, New York, recommends removing rust stains from fiberglass with cola. Just rub it on the stain with a cloth. If a stronger remedy is needed, they recommend adding salt, which acts as an abrasive. Afterward, rinse thoroughly.

Triton-Megayacht News, an online publication, features an article by Sandy Lindsey that advocates sprinkling salt on the rust spot and wetting it down with lime juice. He goes on to recommend letting it sit for two to three hours, then rubbing it with a toothbrush. Lindsey's suggestion for rusty aluminum is equally low tech: Rub the rusty spots with the shiny side of crumpled aluminum foil.

Indeed, even marine-grade metals can deteriorate over time. Stainless steel, though resistant to corrosion, can in fact rust. "It looks horrible," Adams said, "but it's so easy to get off." Adams is high on a wax-only approach. "You don't need a rust remover," he insists. "That only exposes the bare metal so it's exposed to oxidation."

As for exterior aluminum, he recommends waxing with 3M Aluminum Restorer and Polish, although for deep pitting, he said, "it's time to bring on the power tools."

There are also some serious don'ts. Many experts warn against using sandpaper, steel wool or other abrasive pads on stainless. The harsh textures can result in small scratches that will eventually cause more rust. Many marinas and detailers also caution against the use of household rust cleaners, preferring marine-grade products or home-grown remedies.

Of course, if rust is heavy, it may be time to replace a fixture rather than spending hours on treatment–especially for high-use items like cleats and hinges.