It is as inevitable as the change of seasons – the onslaught of spring commissioning articles. Every magazine and website – including this one – provides voluminous check lists chock-full of things to do before you launch, from changing the oil to lubricating zipper cushions.

Sure, it's all good stuff. But it's also overwhelming – and sometimes unrealistic. If we followed all that good advice, we'd be splashing our boats in October. Most of us cover the basics to keep the boat safe and seaworthy, and do our best with the rest.

So rather than give you more to do, we decided to focus this year's commissioning stories on what not to do – 12 mistakes to avoid during spring outfitting (today) and five areas of your boat that should not be neglected (tomorrow). The idea is to help you spend more time on the water by eliminating common errors as you get the boat ready.

WOODY WAXESWoody Wax is one of the companies who can supply excellent non-skid waxes.Of course, if you are looking for the traditional Spring lists, you'll find what you need on Mad Mariner's Spring Outfitting Page. There are stories on Planning Your Outfitting, Getting the Work Done, Choosing a Yard, Surviving a Survey, and Sling Safety. There is also plenty of help for do-it-yourselfers, including expert articles on Cleaning Your Boat, Greening Your Boat, Maintaing a Marine Diesel, Repairing Sails, -- even caring for those zippers.

If you want to look ahead to this season's cruising, we have articles on Planning Your Cruise, Preparing for Your Cruise, Provisioning the Boat, Basic Navigation and a great deal more.

So sure, read up and start making your lists, but also consider some of these tips to help ensure a safer, easier boating season.

DON'T WAX THE NON-SKID

We all want our boats to look their best before launch, so most check lists include a thorough wash and wax of the hull and deck. But don't use that hull wax on your non-skid unless you enjoy the sensation of walking on ice. There are several good waxes for non-skid, which give you the protection you need without the attendant risk. Woody Wax makes a fiberglass and non-skid wax for this purpose.

DON'T FORGET THE WATER HEATER

Flushing the antifreeze from the water system is on everyone's check list, but how many boaters remember that they also need to flush the antifreeze from the water heater? I guarantee that you will never forget to do this after you fire up the engine and cook that water heater full of antifreeze. I wish I had a great way to get the resulting bad taste out of the water, but I don't – so remember to flush the system first.

PETTIT PAINT SUPPLIESPettit supplies a full range of ntifouling solutions; hard to soft, fiberglass to aluminum.DON'T NEGLECT BATTERIES

Many folks remove the batteries from their boats in the fall and reinstall them in the spring, but don't assume all is well because they were kept at home. Before going to all the effort of lifting your batteries into the boat, take a few minutes to check them over.

The first step is to check the electrolyte levels in the cell, if you have flooded-cell batteries. If the cells are low, fill them with distilled water. Then put the battery on charge. If you have an AGM or Gel battery, make sure your charger is configured correctly. The charger should also be a three stage unit, to prevent overcharging. Once charged, check the specific gravity of the electrolyte with a battery hydrometer, to make sure it complies with manufacturer's specifications. And be sure to use a decent hydrometer – I have had accuracy problems with some of the cheaper models.

OR THE REST OF THE SYSTEM

With the battery in good shape, inspect your electrical system – especially connections such as terminal strips and bus bars – for signs of corrosion (the green stuff). Corrosion build-up on the connections will raise the resistance of that connection, and may contribute to overheated wiring and electrical fires, not to mention the erratic behavior in your electronics.

DON'T GOOF THE PAINT

One of the rituals of spring is the application of bottom paint. Bottom paint is expensive so many folks look for bargains. However, before you buy, make sure you know what kind of paint is currently on your hull.

There are two types of paint: hard and soft (ablative). You can apply hard paint over hard paint, soft paint over soft paint and soft paint over hard. But don't even think of applying cheap hard paint over soft ablative paint, because it will soon slough off.

There are hundreds of different brands and formulas of bottom paint on the market. Most all of them work well in certain circumstances, but not all work well in all locations. Network with your local boating buddies and find out what they use and how successful the application has been. Don't depend on just one opinion. Get a consensus and follow it.

DON'T CHOOSE THE WRONG TAPE

You will find dozens of different tapes in your local boat store, from the cheap tan masking tape to the expensive fine line tapes and duct tapes, and each has its own purpose and use. One critical factor is the length of time they can be left on the hull. Leave that tan masking tape on long enough and it will take a chisel to get it off, damaging the gel coat.

Many boaters use blue painter's tape for masking the bottom paint, sealing the top of the paint with a rounded took (like a screwdriver top) to prevent bleed through. This is a good solution if painting is going to take just a day or two. But if the project is going to take longer, choose a different tape.

DON'T ASSUME THE FUEL IS FINE

The current recommendation for gasoline-fueled boats is to fill the tanks about 95 percent full in the fall. This minimizes the amount of free air in the tank, while allowing sufficient room for the gas to expand and contract without spilling.