Those of you who frequent marine stores probably have noticed StarBoard handrails for sale. I spent some time evaluating them and saw two major problems. First, the bases are only 3/4–inch wide, the thickness of the stock. This doesn't provide, in my opinion, enough side–to–side stability for something as important as a handrail. Secondly, they aren't available in the proper lengths, with the correct loop spacing, to fit my boat. So I went back to the drawing board with the Kleer product in mind.Paul EsterleAn overhead view of the port handrail, showing the curve.

I already knew that simply cutting the handrail profile from 3/4–inch stock wouldn't give me the stability I wanted. I also had to contend with the fact that the handrails had a pronounced curve to them. I decided to make the upper portion of the handrail 2 inches wide. To get the rail high enough off the cabin top to be able to get my fingers underneath, I spaced the rail 11/2 inches off the cabin top by using two layers of 3/4–inch stock.

After removing the old rail, I taped together a length of card stock long enough for the pattern and wider than needed. I cut 2–inch diameter circles from the same cardboard and temporarily screwed them in place, using the existing handrail mounting holes. This located the mounting holes on the cardboard pattern and the circle defined the outside edge of the 2-inch-wide handrail.

I used a flexible batten, placed against the cardboard circles, to outline the edges of the handrail. I then cut the pattern to the outlines and transferred it to the PVC. I cut the handrails out with my jig saw and drilled the mounting holes.

The next step was to make the spaces. I cut a series of rectangular blocks and center drilled them. I mounted them on a length of threaded rod and sanded all the edges even. A quick pass with a round over bit in my router gave the blocks smooth corners.

The nice thing about PVC is that it can be glued with standard plumbing PVC cement. I used the clear style to avoid staining the PVC and glued each support from two of the 3/4–inch blocks. I glued to longer blocks to each end of the handrail and then sanded them to a smooth, tapered shape with my belt sander.

To mount the handrails, I thru–bolted them using stainless steel oval headed machine screws and finishing washers on the top side. Inside the cabin, I use large stainless steel fender washers and acorn nuts. The acorn nuts provided a smooth, non–snagging and finished look to the project.

I left the handrails unfinished and can say, after three years in place, they look as good as new.

PROPANE LOCKER

My daughter's 34–foot sailboat had no propane locker and no convenient place to install one. After some experimentation with cardboard prototype, I found that I could build a propane locker to hold two 10-pound cylinders that would fit up against the aft end of the transom. Paul EsterleStarBoard project photos.

Before making any kind of propane locker, be sure to check the specs recommended by the American Boat & Yacht Council, which sets construction standards. You will find that the locker should be separate from any other compartments, sealed and have a drain to eliminate any leaking propane.

Making such a box using fiberglass would mean a complicated mold that requires a lot of finishing work. Neither of those options appealed to me. I decided to make the locker out of 1/2–inch StarBoard instead. The box would have a front and back, two sides and a bottom, as well as a hinged top that could be sealed. The box would angle to match the slope of the inside of the transom, and the bottom would be raised several inches off the deck. I did this for two reasons. It would give me room to install the fittings for the overboard drain and it would allow access to the top of the rudder shaft so the emergency tiller could be fitted.

The locker is required to be sealed so no propane can leak out. I accomplished this by using aluminum angles in all the corners and thru–bolting the StarBoard in place. I use 3M5300 sealant under the aluminum angles to provide a gas-tight seal. The product will not stick to the StarBoard but once in place and compressed by the aluminum angle, it forms a good gasket.

To add a little more function to the locker, I added teak fiddles to the top so it could be used as a small cockpit table. The finished unit, while a little expensive, was still cheaper and quicker than a custom-built fiberglass locker.

I hope these projects give you a better feel for marine polymer lumber and some of its many uses. Unless you like varnishing a whole lot more than I do, it's often a better way to go.